Don't let the original post date of this topic scare you. Despite the fact that it was originally posted years ago, it is updated on a regular basis to reflect the most current hamster care standards.
Last update = February 2021
Some notes about this thread:
This is not intended to be an all-inclusive "Everything You Need to Know About Hamsters and More" guide. If it were, it would be a whole lot longer than it already is! 
However, I will say that if you both read this article and all of the articles that it links to...you will end up with a pretty good understanding of hamsters and their care. It still doesn't cover absolutely everything (it doesn't touch on health or behavior issues), but it's a good start.
PRE-HAMSTER CONSIDERATIONS
Before you jump into getting a hamster, it's worth asking yourself if a hamster is the right pet for you. Hamsters are awesome and interesting animals, but they are not the right pet for everyone.
[CLICK HERE] to take a look at a hamster suitability quiz that will help you decide if a hamster is a good fit for you.
SPECIES CONSIDERATIONS
Generally speaking, all 5 species of hamster are fairly similar in their care. However, there are some differences that may be relevant depending on your situation.
[CLICK HERE] to read about some of the differences in species.
REQUIRED SUPPLIES
Cage
NOTE: The cage size guidelines given are meant to apply to typical pet owner situations. They are not meant to be applied to large-scale organizations like breeders and rescues, as it would be physically impossible for these organizations to provide such large enclosures for each animal. This should be common sense, but it has been brought to our attention that people choose to brigade and harass breeders and rescues for not having maximum-sized cages. Hamster Hideout does not endorse this type of behavior.
A hamster's cage should be as large as possible, as hamsters need extremely large cages relative to their body size. There is no functional maximum cage size for a hamster - the larger the cage, the happier, healthier, and better-adjusted the hamster.
Large aquariums (40-gallon, 55-gallon, 75-gallon and up) and bin cages are favored options, though DIY cages are becoming increasingly popular due to their flexibility in terms of size.
Avoid the small, modular-style hamster cages like Crittertrails, Habitrails / OVOs, S.A.M., typical starter kits, and so on. They are not appropriate due to their small size. In addition, these cages tend to be expensive, poorly-built, easy to escape, and difficult to clean. However, there are some commercial cages available (particularly in Europe) that do provide reasonable space for a hamster. Bear in mind that these are decent but not great in terms of size. These include the Savic Hamster Heaven, the Alaska, and the Alexander, among others. These cages make good starting points for some species.
In the US, Kaytee has recently (as of this writing) come out with a product called the CritterTrail Super Habitat. While leagues above a standard CritterTrail cage, this cage is still a fairly modest size. It would work best connected to a large bin or another CritterTrail Super.
[CLICK HERE] for an overview of good cage options
[CLICK HERE] to learn about why hamsters need large cages
[CLICK HERE] and [CLICK HERE] to learn about some of the problems with modular cages
[CLICK HERE] for DIY cage ideas
[CLICK HERE] for more about bin cages
[CLICK HERE] to learn more about the IKEA Detolf as a cage
Bedding
Safe bedding generally fits into two different categories - aspen shavings and paper-based beddings. Specific examples include Carefresh (paper-based varieties only), Kaytee Clean & Cozy (unscented only), Supreme Cosi & Dri, Eco Bedding, Boxo, Oxbow Pure Comfort, Kaytee Soft Granules (unscented only), Vitakraft Fresh World Crumbles, and generic versions of these products. In the UK, Megazorb and Fitch are good, safe bedding choices.
Unsafe beddings include any type of wood shavings that are not specifically labeled as aspen (pine, cedar, unspecified shavings, softwood shavings). Cotton wool, corn cob, and scented beddings are also considered unsafe.
Hamsters should be given at least 10" of bedding, though more is strongly recommended. Like gerbils, hamsters are burrowing animals, and benefit immensely from having a deep layer of bedding to tunnel in.
[CLICK HERE] to learn about the different types of safe and unsafe bedding
Food bowl
Ceramic food bowls are recommended over plastic, because they cannot be chewed or tipped over. A bowl is actually not completely necessary, as you may choose to scatter-feed. However, bowls do make it easier to monitor hamster food consumption.
Water bottle / Water bowl
Water bottle should be a 4 oz, 6 oz, or 8 oz size. Avoid going larger than 8 oz, as the ball bearing may be too heavy for the hamster to drink from. Hamsters typically drink less than 1 oz per day, so there's no need to worry about getting a bottle that's "too small." Even the smallest bottles available are plenty big enough. Water bottles can be tricky to clean, and must be thoroughly scrubbed with soap and water once per week.
Water bowls are used by some hamster owners, and can work very well in some situations. The bowl must be very shallow, and must be constantly monitored to ensure the water is clean. The bowl should be kept on a shelf of some sort away from the bedding to reduce soiling.
Hideout
Plastic igloos are the most common type. Plastic may not be ideal for hamsters that chew a lot, as it isn't something that should be eaten. However, plastic hideouts are a good starting point because they are inexpensive and easy to find. Ceramic is great, because it's chew-proof and easy to clean. Wooden and edible hutches are fine, but be aware that these types of hideouts cannot be cleaned, and must be thrown away if they become too soiled. Therefore, they aren't well suited to hamsters that use their nests as toilets.
The hideout should be large enough for the hamster to move comfortably. In addition, the hideout should be filled with enough bedding or nesting material for the hamster to completely cover itself in.
Chew toys
Hamsters have ever-growing teeth, and need to gnaw to wear them down. If a hamster does not chew, the teeth can become overgrown and prevent the hamster from eating and drinking.
The most common chew toys are simple wooden blocks. These chews are sometimes unappealing to hamsters. To remedy this, a small amount of peanut butter or yogurt drop can be smeared on the wood to entice the hamster to chew. There are other commercial options like Snak Shaks and Cheesie Chews. Alternately, you can use plain high-quality dog biscuits (no garlic, onion, meat by-products, etc.), whole-grain pasta, or Whimzees/Paragon chews. All edible chews should be monitored and limited.
[CLICK HERE] to learn about Whimzees
[CLICK HERE] to learn about Edible Logz (a similar product to Snak Shaks)
Wheel
Hamsters are among the most active animals kept as pets. A wheel is not an optional toy--it is a requirement just as much as food and water.
Wheels must be plastic or wooden with a flat running surface. Wire and mesh wheels are harmful and potentially dangerous. They can cause bumblefoot (an infection of cuts in the foot caused by rough wires), broken toes / feet, and other health issues.
Err on the side of getting a large wheel--a too-small wheel can cause injury, but a too-large one will not cause any harm. In fact, there is some evidence that hamsters prefer wheels that we might consider excessively large, even to the point of choosing a 13" (35 cm) wheel over a 9" (23 cm) wheel. (From this topic.)
Dwarf species should have a wheel of at least 8". Syrian hamsters will require a 10" or larger wheel. Recommended wheels are linked below.
[CLICK HERE] to learn about Comfort Wheels
[CLICK HERE] to learn about Silent Spinners
[CLICK HERE] to learn about Wodent Wheels
[CLICK HERE] to learn about Flying Saucers
[CLICK HERE] to learn about Carolina Storm Bucket Wheels
Commercial hamster food
[Please see DIET section below for specific information]
Cleaning supplies
Many of these items are likely already available in most households.
- Paper towels
- Sponges
- Dish soap (unscented is great if you can get it)
- Baby bottle brushes + pipe cleaners / cotton swabs (for cleaning water bottles)
- White vinegar + empty spray bottles
- Pet-safe cage cleaner
Sturdy carrier
A carrier like a Kritter Keeper is important for cage-cleaning time, vet visits, and general transport. The carrier must be sturdy plastic. Hamsters should never be kept in cardboard carriers for any period of time, as they can be chewed through in seconds. The carrier does not need to be enormous, but must provide enough space for the hamster to move and walk around.
[CLICK HERE] to learn about a few different types of carriers available
[CLICK HERE] for some more information about what to look for in a carrier
Gram scale
Pocket scales or jewelry scales to monitor weight can be purchased for around $10 on Amazon. In a pinch, a sensitive (weighs to at least the nearest gram) kitchen scale will do.
Toys / Cage Furnishings
Empty, open cages do not suit most hamsters, as they feel exposed and may become nervous or skittish. A hamster cage should be furnished with plenty of toys to provide physical and mental stimulation. Extra hideouts, digging pits, tubes (toilet paper or plastic), bridges, tunnels, and Puzzle Playgrounds are all good choices, although there are plenty of options. Sand baths are wonderful for all species, although dwarfs in particular love them.
[CLICK HERE] for some DIY toy and accessory ideas
RECOMMENDED SUPPLIES
Room thermometer
Hamsters do not do well in extreme temperatures. What we consider to be normal temperatures (55F on the low end, 80 - 85F on the high end) can cause serious illness or even death. It is well worth it to have a thermometer to monitor the temperature of the room the hamster is in. A digital reptile thermometer costs $7 at Petco. Somewhat nicer thermometers can be purchased rather cheaply (<$20) on Amazon. Keep all parts of all thermometers out of the hamster's reach. Do not put any probes in the cage like you would for a reptile, because hamsters will chew them. Just attach the probe to a nearby surface outside of the cage.
First aid kit
A first aid kit is useful in the event of an injury or illness, especially late at night when the vet is closed.
[CLICK HERE] to read about what you should put in a hamster first aid kit.
[CLICK HERE] for information on hamster emergencies and first aid
Airtight containers
Very useful for food and treat storage. Such containers will keep freshness in and pest insects out.
DIET
A hamster's diet should be primarily a mix of high-quality commercial seed mix and lab blocks. The seed mix provides variety to cater to hamsters' foraging instincts. The lab blocks provide a solid, consistent source of nutrition.
As a general rule, adult hamsters need 17% - 19% protein, 4%-7% fat, and 8 - 13% fiber. Young hamsters under 6 months of age will require more protein (22% - 24%) for growth, and elderly hamsters (2 years or older) may do better with slightly less protein.
Look for a high-quality food. As much as possible, avoid foods with artificial dyes or excessive added sugars (some added sugar is generally unavoidable). Avoid mixes that appear to have large amounts of any one ingredient - instead, opt for a choice with more variety.
Hamsters can also be fed seeds, grains, fresh vegetables and fruits, feeder insects (mealworms, crickets, waxworms, etc.), and well-cooked, lean meats.
[CLICK HERE] and [CLICK HERE] to learn more about fresh foods and how to feed them
[CLICK HERE] to learn more about commercial hamster foods
[CLICK HERE] for Part I of an in-depth course on hamster nutrition (the rest of the parts are linked at the top of Part I)
MEDICAL CARE
Getting your hamster medical care is an important part of ownership. This means taking your hamster to the vet in the event of illness or injury. Contrary to popular myth, vet care is not "optional" for hamsters - it is an ethical and legal requirement for ownership. Not taking a sick or injured animal to the vet is animal cruelty, the penalty for which can be fines or even jail time. If you absolutely cannot get to or afford a veterinarian, you should not get a hamster.
You will want to seek out an exotic veterinarian, as many companion animal vets ("cat-and-dog" vets) will not treat hamsters. However, there are some companion animal vets that will see a hamster in an emergency.
Vet care for hamsters is not typically overly expensive, though it varies by area. A typical exam fee is $60 - $90. Expect to pay $20 - $30 for medications, depending on the type, amount, and dosage.
[CLICK HERE] to visit Vetective.com, a website where you can find an exotic vet near you.
[CLICK HERE] to read different members' experiences with veterinary costs
[CLICK HERE] for a general article about vet care in hamsters.
GENERAL CARE (EVERY 1 - 2 DAYS)
The cage should be spot cleaned every day or every other day. To do this, simply pick out any droppings and urine-soaked bedding. Make sure to check the nest as well--many hamsters will use their hideouts as toilets. Some hamsters will use their wheels as toilets, so it may be necessary to wipe or wash the wheel on a daily basis as well.
Most hamster water bottles can hold many days' worth of water. However, this does not mean that the bottle should be left alone until it is emptied! The water bottle should be checked every single day to make sure it is dispensing water and hasn't stopped up. To check the bottle, simply tap on the ball in the spout to ensure that water is coming out. The bottle should be emptied, rinsed, and have fresh water added at least every other day, if not every day. If using a bowl, the bowl should be checked and cleaned daily as needed.
Feeding can be done daily or every other day. If you choose to feed every other day, make sure you are providing enough food for 2 full days!
Hamsters should ideally be weighed at least a few times per week, if not daily. Hamsters are prey animals, and are excellent at hiding illnesses. Weight loss or gain is very often the first sign of trouble. These changes can often be very sudden (over the course of 1 or 2 days), so a weekly weigh-in may not catch issues in time. Daily weigh-ins are more likely to catch problems.
Health checks are important, and should be done once a week at the very least (daily is preferred). This includes checking for any injuries or abnormalities (lumps, discharge from orifices).
[CLICK HERE] to learn more about hamster health checks
CLEANING
As mentioned above, the cage should be spot-cleaned several times per week.
Once per week, the water bottle and food dish should be washed with mild soap and water. The wheel and any washable toys can be washed on an as-needed basis.
Occasionally, the cage will need to be "deep-cleaned". This means throwing away a large portion of the bedding (save a small amount for the familiar smell) and washing the actual cage with soap and water or a cleaning spray.
How often a full cleaning is necessary depends on the size of the cage. Smaller cages need to be cleaned more frequently than larger ones. It's up to you to determine the frequency of cleaning, because every situation is different. Your hamster should always have an odor-free cage to live in.
Keep in mind that full-cleans can be stressful to a hamster, and should not be done too frequently. A modern, adequately-sized cage should not need to be full-cleaned more than once a month. If the cage is getting smelly before this, there may be some other issue at work. The hamster may need a bigger cage, deeper bedding, or more thorough spot-cleaning.
Only small pet safe cleaners, mild soap (like dish soap), and vinegar should be used to clean a hamster's cage. Never use household cleaners (Windex, Lysol, Clorox wipes, etc.) on a hamster's cage or any accessories! These cleaners are far too harsh, and could leave harmful residues. Diluted bleach can be used in cases of contagious illness, but should never be used for routine cleaning.
HEALTHY ENVIRONMENT
The temperature of the room the hamster is in must be kept between 60F and 80F at all times. Temperatures outside of this range can be extremely dangerous to hamsters. The most comfortable and safe temperatures for hamsters are between 68F and 75F, though this can vary depending on what the hamster is used to.
Keep the room as "naturally lit" as possible. Light in the daytime is fine, but the room should be relatively dark at night. Having bright lights on at night could discourage your hamster from coming out.
Keep noise to a relative minimum. Most household noises will not bother a hamster, but don't have the TV or sound system blaring.
Make sure that no other pets have access to the cage. Even if the pet means no harm, the constant presence of a dog or cat is a huge source of stress for a tiny hamster.
The air should be clean. Do not use any scented products near a hamster's cage. This includes air fresheners of any kind, scented candles, perfumes, and harsh cleaning products (Clorox, Windex, etc.).
ADDITIONAL RESOURCES
[CLICK HERE] to learn about the different species of hamster
[CLICK HERE] to learn about keeping more than one hamster in a cage
[CLICK HERE] to learn about taming and training your hamster
[CLICK HERE] for information about accidental pregnancies
[CLICK HERE] for information about hamster illnesses
Edited by Taxonomist, 02 February 2021 - 03:20 AM.
