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Hamster Basics! So you want to learn how to tame your hammie?

These techniques are especially good for the timid or newbie hamster owner! Experienced hamster owners may find this a slow process.

Well, you have just bought your first hamster and now you have no idea what to do! Don't worry, we have all been there! I have tried to create a little training manual from things I have learned, which have helped me greatly.

Coming Home:

1. First of all, you must realize that when you first bring home your hammie you must resist the temptation to try and play with it. Your hammie needs time to acclimate itself to you and its new surroundings.

2. For the three days, place your hammie in its cage and just leave it alone. Do not play with it.just LEAVE IT ALONE! Most hamsters will become stressed upon coming into an new environment, dwarfs or syrians. But, for syrians, they can come down with Wet Tail the first few days of arriving at their new home because of the stress. All animals need time to adjust in order to feel feel comfortable....just as you would if moving into a new home. There are new sounds to learn and new people all around you to get used to.

3. On the fourth day, try introducing scented tissue. This means tissue that has your scent on it. For girls this is simple. Just put a little tissue in your bra for a few hours and then place it in your hamster's cage. For guys well, tuck it in your sock or something! We'll let you decide where to put it!

4. Give your hammie new tissue each day with your scent on it. What this is doing is letting your hamster get to know you by your smell. This is a very good idea because this way when you start to play with your hammie, then hopefully because it knows your scent, you won't get bitten! We still give our girl who is over a year old scented tissue just to make sure she knows she's part of the family and to make her feel comfortable!

5. Why you are using the tissue method on the 4th and 5th day (and as long as you need to use this method continue to do so) also begin feeding your hammie hand treats. I would really like to stress the importance of healthy treats! Sunflower seeds and pumpkins, although yummy treats, are fattening. Yogurt drops and commercial pet treats generally contain too much sugar. Therefore I like veggies! My girl's personal favorite our baby peas. I keep a few of them on hand at all times to help with taming. Carrots also work well. Avoid giving too many fruits also. The key to any fruit/vegetable is moderation.

NOW ON TO THE TAMING LESSONS:

Day 1:

I have certain items that I really like to use when taming such as: a hamster ball, a detergent lid, and a play tub filled with toys and a playpen.

1. To start with use your hamster ball by placing it next to your cage door and let your hamster crawl into it on its own. Be patient.this may take a while!

2. Next lower the ball into the play tub and give your hamster time to go out on his own and explore his new surroundings. See picture:



3. Next try giving a hand treat to bribe your hammie with. Lay your hand on the bottom of the tub giving your hamster time to become familiar with you. Remember: your hamster can only trust you if you trust your hamster! So please try not to be frightened that he might bite you. If you're not scared, then your hammie won't be either! 

4. Pretty soon your hammie will be running over your hand like it is just another toy. Time to stop for today!

5. Put your hamster ball back into the tub and let your hammie crawl in. Then hold the ball up to the cage door to let your hammie back into its cage. 

6. Give your hammie a nice treat and talk with your hammie encouragingly!

Day 2:

Repeat all of the steps of Day 1 then add these steps:

1. Try and get your hammie to go into the detergent cup (or any small cup) and gently lift it a little ways off the floor of the tub but not far. Now, with your other hand, make a little bridge for him to use to jump off of to reach the bottom of the play tub. Soon this will become a game and your hammie will crawl into the cup just to jump off your hand! See picture:




2. Continue with this until your hammie seems to be getting a little tired or hungry. You don't want to overdue it! Use the hamster ball to return it to the cage.

3. Give your hammie a nice treat and talk with your hammie encouragingly!

Day 3 and 4:

Repeat all of the steps of Day 1 and Day 2.

Day 5:

The big moment, here you get to really play and have fun with your hammie!

1. Setup your playpen and have it ready.

2. Go and get your hamster with the hamster ball and sit inside the playpen crossed legged. The playpen will prevent you from losing your hammie should it get away from you. Hold your hands in a cupped fashion under the opening of the hamster ball to make a large bridge, just as you did with the detergent cup with one hand. See picture.



3. Now you have to be patient again. Your hammie might come right out and feel comfortable or might be a little shy. Once your hammie comes out just let it explore! Don't try and make it do what you want, let it do what it wants!

4. Soon you will be surprised that it is crawling all over you and you are having the time of your life. See picture.



5. When you are done, again use the hamster ball. After all this time it is still my favorite mode of transportation throughout the house. I know that my little No Name can't get away from me in transit this way and I won't be frantic or guilty because I lost her!

6. Give your hammie a nice treat and talk with your hammie encouragingly!

CONGRATULATIONS! Now you know how to train your hammie! I am sure some of you will be able to train your hammie faster, but many may have to take longer to tame your hammies! It is really up to your individual hammie! Let them set the pace!!! No Name took over a month to tame because she was so skittish, as was I, but Baby Girl was tamed in just 3 days because she was so outgoing and friendly! You have to remember that hamsters have personalities just like ourselves, so take your cue from them and before you know it you will have a loving bond between you and your hamster!

Good luck everyone! If you have any specific questions, please feel free to post your questions or PM me. I am always happy and willing to help!

~ Monkeysmom

Special credit is given to Baby Girl who is pictured in this taming section. She is now a part of the Rainbow Bridge....may she rest in peace in God's loving shadow!

Don't let the original post date of this topic scare you. Despite the fact that it was originally posted years ago, it is updated on a regular basis to reflect the most current hamster care standards.

Last update = February 2021

Some notes about this thread:

This is not intended to be an all-inclusive "Everything You Need to Know About Hamsters and More" guide. If it were, it would be a whole lot longer than it already is! However, I will say that if you both read this article and all of the articles that it links to...you will end up with a pretty good understanding of hamsters and their care. It still doesn't cover absolutely everything (it doesn't touch on health or behavior issues), but it's a good start.

 

PRE-HAMSTER CONSIDERATIONS

Before you jump into getting a hamster, it's worth asking yourself if a hamster is the right pet for you. Hamsters are awesome and interesting animals, but they are not the right pet for everyone.

[CLICK HERE] to take a look at a hamster suitability quiz that will help you decide if a hamster is a good fit for you.

 

 
 

 

SPECIES CONSIDERATIONS

 

Generally speaking, all 5 species of hamster are fairly similar in their care.  However, there are some differences that may be relevant depending on your situation.

 

[CLICK HERE] to read about some of the differences in species.

 

 

 

REQUIRED SUPPLIES

Cage

NOTE: The cage size guidelines given are meant to apply to typical pet owner situations. They are not meant to be applied to large-scale organizations like breeders and rescues, as it would be physically impossible for these organizations to provide such large enclosures for each animal. This should be common sense, but it has been brought to our attention that people choose to brigade and harass breeders and rescues for not having maximum-sized cages. Hamster Hideout does not endorse this type of behavior.

A hamster's cage should be as large as possible, as hamsters need extremely large cages relative to their body size. There is no functional maximum cage size for a hamster - the larger the cage, the happier, healthier, and better-adjusted the hamster.

Large aquariums (40-gallon, 55-gallon, 75-gallon and up) and bin cages are favored options, though DIY cages are becoming increasingly popular due to their flexibility in terms of size.

Avoid the small, modular-style hamster cages like Crittertrails, Habitrails / OVOs, S.A.M., typical starter kits, and so on. They are not appropriate due to their small size. In addition, these cages tend to be expensive, poorly-built, easy to escape, and difficult to clean.  However, there are some commercial cages available (particularly in Europe) that do provide reasonable space for a hamster. Bear in mind that these are decent but not great in terms of size. These include the Savic Hamster Heaven, the Alaska, and the Alexander, among others. These cages make good starting points for some species.

In the US, Kaytee has recently (as of this writing) come out with a product called the CritterTrail Super Habitat. While leagues above a standard CritterTrail cage, this cage is still a fairly modest size. It would work best connected to a large bin or another CritterTrail Super.

[CLICK HERE] for an overview of good cage options
[CLICK HERE] to learn about why hamsters need large cages
[CLICK HERE] and [CLICK HERE] to learn about some of the problems with modular cages
[CLICK HERE] for DIY cage ideas
[CLICK HERE]for more about bin cages
[CLICK HERE] to learn more about the IKEA Detolf as a cage

Bedding
Safe bedding generally fits into two different categories - aspen shavings and paper-based beddings. Specific examples include Carefresh (paper-based varieties only), Kaytee Clean & Cozy (unscented only), Supreme Cosi & Dri, Eco Bedding, Boxo, Oxbow Pure Comfort, Kaytee Soft Granules (unscented only), Vitakraft Fresh World Crumbles, and generic versions of these products. In the UK, Megazorb and Fitch are good, safe bedding choices.

Unsafe beddings include any type of wood shavings that are not specifically labeled as aspen (pine, cedar, unspecified shavings, softwood shavings). Cotton wool, corn cob, and scented beddings are also considered unsafe.

Hamsters should be given at least 10" of bedding, though more is strongly recommended. Like gerbils, hamsters are burrowing animals, and benefit immensely from having a deep layer of bedding to tunnel in.

[CLICK HERE] to learn about the different types of safe and unsafe bedding

Food bowl
Ceramic food bowls are recommended over plastic, because they cannot be chewed or tipped over. A bowl is actually not completely necessary, as you may choose to scatter-feed. However, bowls do make it easier to monitor hamster food consumption.

Water bottle / Water bowl
Water bottle should be a 4 oz, 6 oz, or 8 oz size. Avoid going larger than 8 oz, as the ball bearing may be too heavy for the hamster to drink from. Hamsters typically drink less than 1 oz per day, so there's no need to worry about getting a bottle that's "too small." Even the smallest bottles available are plenty big enough. Water bottles can be tricky to clean, and must be thoroughly scrubbed with soap and water once per week.

Water bowls are used by some hamster owners, and can work very well in some situations. The bowl must be very shallow, and must be constantly monitored to ensure the water is clean. The bowl should be kept on a shelf of some sort away from the bedding to reduce soiling.

Hideout
Plastic igloos are the most common type. Plastic may not be ideal for hamsters that chew a lot, as it isn't something that should be eaten. However, plastic hideouts are a good starting point because they are inexpensive and easy to find. Ceramic is great, because it's chew-proof and easy to clean. Wooden and edible hutches are fine, but be aware that these types of hideouts cannot be cleaned, and must be thrown away if they become too soiled. Therefore, they aren't well suited to hamsters that use their nests as toilets.

The hideout should be large enough for the hamster to move comfortably. In addition, the hideout should be filled with enough bedding or nesting material for the hamster to completely cover itself in.

Chew toys
Hamsters have ever-growing teeth, and need to gnaw to wear them down. If a hamster does not chew, the teeth can become overgrown and prevent the hamster from eating and drinking.

The most common chew toys are simple wooden blocks. These chews are sometimes unappealing to hamsters. To remedy this, a small amount of peanut butter or yogurt drop can be smeared on the wood to entice the hamster to chew. There are other commercial options like Snak Shaks and Cheesie Chews. Alternately, you can use plain high-quality dog biscuits (no garlic, onion, meat by-products, etc.), whole-grain pasta, or Whimzees/Paragon chews. All edible chews should be monitored and limited.

[CLICK HERE] to learn about Whimzees
[CLICK HERE] to learn about Edible Logz (a similar product to Snak Shaks)

Wheel
Hamsters are among the most active animals kept as pets. A wheel is not an optional toy--it is a requirement just as much as food and water.

Wheels must be plastic or wooden with a flat running surface. Wire and mesh wheels are harmful and potentially dangerous. They can cause bumblefoot (an infection of cuts in the foot caused by rough wires), broken toes / feet, and other health issues.

Err on the side of getting a large wheel--a too-small wheel can cause injury, but a too-large one will not cause any harm. In fact, there is some evidence that hamsters prefer wheels that we might consider excessively large, even to the point of choosing a 13" (35 cm) wheel over a 9" (23 cm) wheel. (From this topic.)

Dwarf species should have a wheel of at least 8". Syrian hamsters will require a 10" or larger wheel. Recommended wheels are linked below.

[CLICK HERE] to learn about Comfort Wheels
[CLICK HERE] to learn about Silent Spinners
[CLICK HERE] to learn about Wodent Wheels
[CLICK HERE] to learn about Flying Saucers
[CLICK HERE] to learn about Carolina Storm Bucket Wheels

Commercial hamster food
[Please see DIET section below for specific information]

Cleaning supplies
Many of these items are likely already available in most households.

• Paper towels
• Sponges
• Dish soap (unscented is great if you can get it)
• Baby bottle brushes + pipe cleaners / cotton swabs (for cleaning water bottles)
• White vinegar + empty spray bottles
• Pet-safe cage cleaner

Sturdy carrier
A carrier like a Kritter Keeper is important for cage-cleaning time, vet visits, and general transport. The carrier must be sturdy plastic. Hamsters should never be kept in cardboard carriers for any period of time, as they can be chewed through in seconds. The carrier does not need to be enormous, but must provide enough space for the hamster to move and walk around.

[CLICK HERE] to learn about a few different types of carriers available
[CLICK HERE] for some more information about what to look for in a carrier

Gram scale
Pocket scales or jewelry scales to monitor weight can be purchased for around $10 on Amazon. In a pinch, a sensitive (weighs to at least the nearest gram) kitchen scale will do.

Toys / Cage Furnishings
Empty, open cages do not suit most hamsters, as they feel exposed and may become nervous or skittish. A hamster cage should be furnished with plenty of toys to provide physical and mental stimulation. Extra hideouts, digging pits, tubes (toilet paper or plastic), bridges, tunnels, and Puzzle Playgrounds are all good choices, although there are plenty of options. Sand baths are wonderful for all species, although dwarfs in particular love them.

[CLICK HERE] for some DIY toy and accessory ideas

 

RECOMMENDED SUPPLIES

Room thermometer
Hamsters do not do well in extreme temperatures. What we consider to be normal temperatures (55F on the low end, 80 - 85F on the high end) can cause serious illness or even death. It is well worth it to have a thermometer to monitor the temperature of the room the hamster is in. A digital reptile thermometer costs $7 at Petco. Somewhat nicer thermometers can be purchased rather cheaply (<$20) on Amazon. Keep all parts of all thermometers out of the hamster's reach. Do not put any probes in the cage like you would for a reptile, because hamsters will chew them. Just attach the probe to a nearby surface outside of the cage.

First aid kit
A first aid kit is useful in the event of an injury or illness, especially late at night when the vet is closed.

[CLICK HERE] to read about what you should put in a hamster first aid kit.
[CLICK HERE] for information on hamster emergencies and first aid

Airtight containers
Very useful for food and treat storage. Such containers will keep freshness in and pest insects out.

 

DIET

A hamster's diet should be primarily a mix of high-quality commercial seed mix and lab blocks. The seed mix provides variety to cater to hamsters' foraging instincts. The lab blocks provide a solid, consistent source of nutrition.

As a general rule, adult hamsters need 17% - 19% protein, 4%-7% fat, and 8 - 13% fiber. Young hamsters under 6 months of age will require more protein (22% - 24%) for growth, and elderly hamsters (2 years or older) may do better with slightly less protein.

Look for a high-quality food. As much as possible, avoid foods with artificial dyes or excessive added sugars (some added sugar is generally unavoidable). Avoid mixes that appear to have large amounts of any one ingredient - instead, opt for a choice with more variety.

Hamsters can also be fed seeds, grains, fresh vegetables and fruits, feeder insects (mealworms, crickets, waxworms, etc.), and well-cooked, lean meats.

[CLICK HERE] and [CLICK HERE] to learn more about fresh foods and how to feed them
[CLICK HERE] to learn more about commercial hamster foods
[CLICK HERE] for Part I of an in-depth course on hamster nutrition (the rest of the parts are linked at the top of Part I)

 

MEDICAL CARE

Getting your hamster medical care is an important part of ownership. This means taking your hamster to the vet in the event of illness or injury. Contrary to popular myth, vet care is not "optional" for hamsters - it is an ethical and legal requirement for ownership. Not taking a sick or injured animal to the vet is animal cruelty, the penalty for which can be fines or even jail time. If you absolutely cannot get to or afford a veterinarian, you should not get a hamster.

You will want to seek out an exotic veterinarian, as many companion animal vets ("cat-and-dog" vets) will not treat hamsters. However, there are some companion animal vets that will see a hamster in an emergency.

Vet care for hamsters is not typically overly expensive, though it varies by area. A typical exam fee is $60 - $90. Expect to pay $20 - $30 for medications, depending on the type, amount, and dosage.

[CLICK HERE] to visit Vetective.com, a website where you can find an exotic vet near you.
[CLICK HERE] to read different members' experiences with veterinary costs
[CLICK HERE] for a general article about vet care in hamsters.

 

GENERAL CARE (EVERY 1 - 2 DAYS)

The cage should be spot cleaned every day or every other day. To do this, simply pick out any droppings and urine-soaked bedding. Make sure to check the nest as well--many hamsters will use their hideouts as toilets. Some hamsters will use their wheels as toilets, so it may be necessary to wipe or wash the wheel on a daily basis as well.

Most hamster water bottles can hold many days' worth of water. However, this does not mean that the bottle should be left alone until it is emptied! The water bottle should be checked every single day to make sure it is dispensing water and hasn't stopped up. To check the bottle, simply tap on the ball in the spout to ensure that water is coming out. The bottle should be emptied, rinsed, and have fresh water added at least every other day, if not every day. If using a bowl, the bowl should be checked and cleaned daily as needed.

Feeding can be done daily or every other day. If you choose to feed every other day, make sure you are providing enough food for 2 full days!

Hamsters should ideally be weighed at least a few times per week, if not daily. Hamsters are prey animals, and are excellent at hiding illnesses. Weight loss or gain is very often the first sign of trouble. These changes can often be very sudden (over the course of 1 or 2 days), so a weekly weigh-in may not catch issues in time. Daily weigh-ins are more likely to catch problems.

Health checks are important, and should be done once a week at the very least (daily is preferred). This includes checking for any injuries or abnormalities (lumps, discharge from orifices).

[CLICK HERE] to learn more about hamster health checks

 

CLEANING

As mentioned above, the cage should be spot-cleaned several times per week.

Once per week, the water bottle and food dish should be washed with mild soap and water. The wheel and any washable toys can be washed on an as-needed basis.

Occasionally, the cage will need to be "deep-cleaned". This means throwing away a large portion of the bedding (save a small amount for the familiar smell) and washing the actual cage with soap and water or a cleaning spray.

How often a full cleaning is necessary depends on the size of the cage. Smaller cages need to be cleaned more frequently than larger ones. It's up to you to determine the frequency of cleaning, because every situation is different. Your hamster should always have an odor-free cage to live in.

Keep in mind that full-cleans can be stressful to a hamster, and should not be done too frequently. A modern, adequately-sized cage should not need to be full-cleaned more than once a month. If the cage is getting smelly before this, there may be some other issue at work. The hamster may need a bigger cage, deeper bedding, or more thorough spot-cleaning.

Only small pet safe cleaners, mild soap (like dish soap), and vinegar should be used to clean a hamster's cage. Never use household cleaners (Windex, Lysol, Clorox wipes, etc.) on a hamster's cage or any accessories! These cleaners are far too harsh, and could leave harmful residues. Diluted bleach can be used in cases of contagious illness, but should never be used for routine cleaning.

 

HEALTHY ENVIRONMENT

The temperature of the room the hamster is in must be kept between 60F and 80F at all times. Temperatures outside of this range can be extremely dangerous to hamsters. The most comfortable and safe temperatures for hamsters are between 68F and 75F, though this can vary depending on what the hamster is used to.

Keep the room as "naturally lit" as possible. Light in the daytime is fine, but the room should be relatively dark at night. Having bright lights on at night could discourage your hamster from coming out.

Keep noise to a relative minimum. Most household noises will not bother a hamster, but don't have the TV or sound system blaring.

Make sure that no other pets have access to the cage. Even if the pet means no harm, the constant presence of a dog or cat is a huge source of stress for a tiny hamster.

The air should be clean. Do not use any scented products near a hamster's cage. This includes air fresheners of any kind, scented candles, perfumes, and harsh cleaning products (Clorox, Windex, etc.).

 

ADDITIONAL RESOURCES

[CLICK HERE] to learn about the different species of hamster
[CLICK HERE] to learn about keeping more than one hamster in a cage
[CLICK HERE] to learn about taming and training your hamster
[CLICK HERE] for information about accidental pregnancies
[CLICK HERE]for information about hamster illnesses

 

Below, you will see a listing of the different threads in the series and links to them:

 

[HAMSTER NUTRITION I] Nutrition, Variety, and Quality

[HAMSTER NUTRITION II] Food Mixing

[HAMSTER NUTRITION III] Calculating the Guaranteed Analysis of a Mixed Diet

[HAMSTER NUTRITION IV] Commercial Food List

[HAMSTER NUTRITION V] Safe and Unsafe Foods for Hamsters 

 

Credits - Sincere thanks to Christmas_hamster, the creator of the original Master Food List which inspired this project.  Next, nebit had an enormous role in developing, editing, and improving these threads.  Finally, HoppingHammy and tbiM20 also offered tons of editing, advice, and contributions.  Thank you all for your help--this wouldn't have been possible without you!

Introduction
 
Well...I think the title of this thread is pretty self-explanatory, to be honest!  Basically, I had noticed that there are a lot of myths and misunderstandings about hamster diets floating around.  I wanted to make a concise list of these myths and the explanations as to why they're wrong.
 
I would like to thank HoppingHammy and tbiM20 for their help, guidance, and editing on this project.  I would also like to thank all of the knowledgeable members (special shout-out to nebit!) who help us all to learn and grow.  
 
If anyone has any questions, critiques, or suggested additions, please feel free to mention them!
 
Myths List
 
MYTH - Seeds are inherently fattening and unhealthy, and should only be fed as rare treats.
FACT - Seeds are a vital part of a hamster's diet, and have various nutritional profiles, pros, and cons.
 

This myth comes from the fact that seeds are indeed not the best food for some small animals, including guinea pigs, rabbits, and chinchillas.  However, it's important to remember that these are different animals with different dietary needs.  Rabbits, chinchillas, and guinea pigs are grazers, and they feed primarily on grasses, plant stalks, and leaves.  Seeds are not a major part of their natural diet, which is why they are not recommended for captive animals. 

 

However, hamsters are not grazers - they are foraging omnivores.  In fact, they are most accurately described as granivores ("seed eaters")!  Seeds are not only acceptable, but an important part of their diet.  Saying that hamsters shouldn't have seeds is like saying that dogs shouldn't have meat, or that cows shouldn't have grass.

 
Not all seeds are high in fat.  In fact, most grains (wheat, rye, barley, spelt, quinoa, etc.) contain very little if any fat, and are loaded with nutrients, fiber, and complex carbohydrates.  
 
Part of the reason seeds get a bad reputation is because many store-bought hamster seed mixes are known for being low-quality and unhealthy.  But these foods are not unhealthy because seeds are inherently bad.  Usually, the biggest issue is that they're not balanced.  Many seed mixes contain large amounts of corn (which is a low-nutrition filler).  Seed mixes also might contain the wrong combinations of seeds (too many high-fat seeds, not enough grains).  Finally, seed mixes can be poor-quality due to factors that have nothing to do with seeds - added sugars, artificial dyes, dangerous preservatives, etc.
 
It's important that we don't blame seeds themselves for the shortcomings of many seed mixes.  Seeds, in the correct quantities and proportions, are a vital part of a hamster's diet.

 

MYTH - Hamsters should have a diet of straight pellets / block food.  Feeding a seed mix is bad because given the choice, hamsters will only eat the tasty junk food in the mix and not get balanced nutrition.
FACT - Hamsters are foragers that do best on a high-variety diet that includes pellets, seeds, nuts, plant matter, and animal protein.  There are ways to feed a balanced diet with a seed mix.
 

As discussed above, seeds are an incredibly important part of a hamster's diet.  All hamsters should have a seed mix in their diet.

 

If a seed mix has "junk food" in it, it's not a good seed mix and shouldn't be fed in the first place.  There are a huge variety of seed mixes available - some are excellent, some are terrible, and plenty are in between.  Choosing a proper, healthy seed mix is the first step to feeding a good, high-variety diet.

 
Then we come to the issue of the hamster picking out only certain parts of a mix and leaving the rest.  This is called "selective feeding" and yes, it can be an issue with some hamsters.  Selective feeding is a big argument for feeding a pellet-only diet.  Obviously, feeding only pellets will prevent selective feeding.  However, that's kind of like saying that a person with allergies should be locked in a hospital their entire life and never allowed outside.  It works, but the solution is extreme and is worse than the original problem.  

 

There are much less extreme solutions to ensure a balanced diet than removing all variety.  One common solution is simply to not refill the food bowl until everything is consumed, to ensure the hamster eats all parts of the mix.  Another option is to switch to a more palatable mix - hamsters have taste preferences just like humans do!
 
 

MYTH – Hamster mixes contain "filler pellets" that contain no nutrition and can be picked out of the mix with no issues.
FACT – The pellets in mixes are the source of vitamins and minerals!
 

This is a relatively recent myth, but it is an extremely dangerous one.  
 
First of all, never remove anything from a packaged hamster mix.  All hamster mixes need to be fed as-is, because their nutritional levels are calculated using all ingredients in the bag.  Once you start removing things, you change the ingredient ratios and therefore the nutrition of the food.  This is true even if what you're removing is just filler.  For example, if you remove fat-free filler from the mix, you're increasing the proportion of higher-fat ingredients, and therefore raising the fat content of the mix.
 

1) The entire purpose of pellets it to deliver the added vitamins and minerals in the food.  This is just how human-made pet food works.  Ingredients are ground up and extruded into a pellet.  The vitamins and minerals that need to be added to the food are either mixed into the ground-up ingredients or sprayed on the outside of the finished pellets.  This is true of nearly all pet food.  Bear in mind that dog and cat kibble are nothing but pellets!  Are they all filler as well?
 

2) The "waste ingredients" that filler pellets are made of have nutrition after all!   Filler pellets are often said to contain garbage ingredients like seed hulls and alfalfa hay.  It turns out, these ingredients actually are nutritionally beneficial.  Alfalfa is an extremely nutritious type of hay - it is specifically recommended for young rabbits and guinea pigs because of it's high nutrient content.  It's relatively high in protein, extremely high in fiber, and contains nutrients like calcium, phosphorous, and magnesium.  Seed hulls may not sound all that great, but the truth is that they have a ton of fiber.  So these supposed filler pellets likely provide most of the fiber in the seed mix.

 

3) The method used to decide which pellets are filler and which ones are not is completely arbitrary and nonsensical.  Most hamster mixes have different types of pellets.  This entire myth hinges on the idea that some pellets are filler, but others are not.  The problem is that which pellets are filler seems to be based on completely irrelevant factors such as size, shape, and color.  

 

The bottom line?  Filler pellets do not exist.
 

MYTH - Corn and peas are non-nutritious sugary junk food and need to be removed from commercial mixes.
FACT - These ingredients should not be removed for various reasons.
 

First, we again come to the fact that commercial mixes are designed to be fed as a whole.  Removing ingredients alters the overall nutrition of the mix.  Peas are actually a great example of this.  Peas are a whopping 25% protein, which is quite high.  They are a major source of protein in many mixes.  Removing peas will lower the protein content of a mix substantially!  If you have a mix that's 18% protein and you start removing peas from it, it's going to end up with less than 18% protein.

 
Corn also serves an important purpose.  It's in the mix to keep it balanced.  Removing the corn results in a mix that is too rich, because it increases the proportions of the other high-fat and high-protein ingredients.  Nebit has a really excellent post explaining this right here.

Second, the corn and peas found in hamster mixes contain virtually no sugar at all.  
 
The dried corn in hamster food is not the same as the sweetcorn that we eat.  This should be obvious just from touching it--the corn we it is soft and squishy.  The corn in hamster food is rock-hard.  The corn in hamster mixes is known as field corn, feed corn, or dent corn.  The biggest difference is that field corn contains very little sugar compared to sweetcorn.
 
Peas are a similar situation.  The peas in hamster food are not the sweet peas or snow peas that many people are familiar with.  They are actually split peas or green peas.  These are an entirely different variety, and have very little sugar in them.
 
 

MYTH - High-fat foods (pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, egg yolk) are inherently "bad" or "unhealthy" and should not be fed if possible.  Lower-fat alternatives (such as egg whites) are always a better choice.
FACT - Fat is not a bad thing, and fat content is not the sole factor in deciding if something is healthy or not.  
 

Despite its bad reputation, fat is not evil or bad.  All animals need fat to survive--it is crucial for energy, growth, and development.  Fats and oils are essential to skin health and coat health.  Excess fat is bad, of course, but that could be said of literally anything.  With all things, moderation is key.
 
It doesn't make sense to judge a food as "healthy" or "unhealthy" only by its fat content.  Just because something is high in fat does not mean that it is unhealthy, and just because something is low in fat does not mean that it is healthy.  It's important to consider the overall nutrition that the item provides.  
 
For example, jelly beans, gummy bears, and soda are all fat-free foods.  Are these things usually considered healthy?  No!  Because despite being fat-free, they are loaded with sugar and provide no useful nutrition.  On the other hand, think of things like nuts, beef, and milk.  These things all have fat in them, and some are actually high in fat.  But they are universally healthier than the items listed above, because they provide actual nutrition in the form of proteins, vitamins, and minerals.  
 
As for low-fat alternatives being a healthier choice, this isn't always true.  Egg yolk much higher in fat than the white.  However, the yolk is also where most of the nutrients in the egg are - it contains more protein, vitamins, and minerals than the white!  While the white has benefits as well, it isn't automatically better than the yolk because it's lower in fat.
 

MYTH – Millet is like candy for hamsters, and should be fed rarely or not at all.
FACT – Millet is a perfectly healthy seed that can be fed even daily, in reasonable quantities.
 

Millet gets a terrible reputation, and there really isn't any reason for it.  There’s nothing about it that could even be misinterpreted as being unhealthy.  Millet is a good source of fiber, and has good complex carbs that help to mitigate blood sugar spikes.  Granted, it’s not absolutely packed with vitamins and minerals, but it is a good source of manganese, and has other nutrients as well.
 

MYTH - Diabetes-prone species (Campbell's, Winter Whites, and Chinese) should never have sugary foods like fruits, as it will increase their risk of developing diabetes.
FACT - Nutritious sugary foods are perfectly fine to feed in limited, reasonable quantities
 

Let's start with the risk factors of diabetes.  Diabetes is largely genetic (both Type 1 and Type 2).  Yes, there are absolutely lifestyle factors that contribute to it, but there is a genetic component as well.  So while a healthy diet is important for all hamsters, diet is not the be-all, end-all of diabetes.
 
Now, let's move on to sugar.  First off, we need to dispel one of the biggest myths in hamster care.
 
Sugar does NOT cause diabetes.  
 
Sugar is not some magic switch that causes diabetes to just poof out of nowhere.  I often see people panicking because they fed their dwarf hamster a piece of fruit and are afraid it will get diabetes.  This simply will not happen.
 
This myth exists because in humans, certain types of diabetes are sometimes correlated with a diet high in processed, refined sugars.  In other words, junk food like soda and candy.  But that's not because sugar itself causes the disease.  No, it's actually much simpler than that.  It's because eating lots of junk food can make you fat.  And being obese can lead to insulin resistance, which may in turn lead to diabetes.  It's not the sugar itself that's the problem--it's the issue of over-consuming and gaining weight because of it.  And even obesity does not automatically mean that a hamster (or human!) will become diabetic.  It increases the risk, sure, but it's not a guaranteed thing.
 
That brings me to my second point.  Because the issue is obesity and not sugar, literally anything that can cause weight gain can technically increase the risk of diabetes if overconsumed.  It's not just excess sugar that can be a problem, excess fat is bad as well.  But please note the word "excess."  Fat and [natural] sugar are not bad for hamsters - it just needs to be fed in reasonable, moderate quantities.
 
This brings us again to the topic of moderation.  There's no reason that dwarf hamsters can't have a piece of fruit or even a sweet treat every so often...as long as it's not being fed to the point that it causes weight gain. 
 

MYTH - Fresh meats, tofu, and eggs are great ways to boost a low-protein staple diet up to suitable levels.
FACT - Most "wet" protein sources do not provide enough protein to boost a low-protein staple diet.
 

Foods like beef, chicken, turkey, eggs, and tofu are known as being "good sources of protein," which has led many hamster owners to assume that they are a reliable way to boost a low-protein diet up to suitable levels.  Surprisingly, this simply isn't the case!
 
These foods are considered high-protein because most of their calories come from protein.  However, this does not take into account their moisture levels, because water does not provide calories.  
 
Because of their water content, many of these foods provide less protein than we would think!
 
For example, 100 grams of egg provides 13.0 grams of protein.  But 100 grams of, say, Oxbow (15% protein, which is considered low for hamsters) provides 15.0 grams of protein.  So egg provides less protein per 100 grams than even a low-protein hamster food.  The same is true for tofu, which is similar in protein content to eggs.
 
Most meats (chicken, turkey, beef) provide about 30.0 grams of protein per 100 grams (so 0.3 grams per 1 gram)  This is higher than pretty much any hamster food, that's true.  However, would this addition be enough to boost protein to acceptable levels?  Let's do the math and see:
 

 

MYTH - There is a single "best" commercial hamster food that represents a perfect diet.

FACT - Every commercial food has different pros and cons--none are perfect, and the best results come from mixing several ones.
 

We often have new members coming on the forum and asking what the "best" hamster food available is.  The thing is, there really isn't one commercial food that hits all of the important points perfectly.  There are certainly good choices, but having an excellent diet requires a bit more work, and generally involves mixing foods.  
 
There are 3 main factors to look at when it comes to hamster diets
 
Nutrition - Proper levels of protein, fat, fiber, vitamins, etc.
Variety - A good mix of different ingredients, flavors, and textures
Ingredient Quality - Balance of nutritious ingredients versus low-nutrient fillers and junk food
 
There really isn't any one food that does all 3 of these things super-well.  Many foods that have great variety are sometimes lacking in nutrition or use lower-quality ingredients.  And foods that have good nutrition sometimes lack variety (this is true of many lab blocks).
 
The other issue here is that not all hamsters need the same nutrition!  Age, physical condition, general health, and things like that all vary from hamster to hamster.  What works for one animal may not work for another.
 
 

MYTH - Oats should be strictly limited because excess fiber can cause constipation.
FACT - Reasonable quantities (a small pinch per day) of oats will not cause constipation, as oats do not contain nearly enough fiber to be considered "excessive." 
 

The reason this myth exists comes from human health issues being applied to hamsters.  
 
Fiber is an excellent constipation remedy for human beings, largely because we cannot digest it.  The fiber passes through our systems undigested, and serves to bulk up stools (to stimulate bowel movement) and to retain water.  Both of these factors help to prevent constipation.  However, it's also possible for fiber to have the opposite effect.  If humans eat too much fiber and don't drink enough water, the result is bulked-up, dry stool...which definitely leads to constipation.
 
However...hamsters have a different digestive system than we do.  They have a section of intestine called the cecum, which is home to various bacteria that are able to break down fiber.  Hamsters can do something that we cannot--they can break down fiber via the bacteria in the cecum.
 
Now, fiber is still important to hamsters in the sense that it feeds and keeps those bacteria healthy.  However, things do work a bit differently for them regarding fiber.  And since hamsters can indeed digest fiber, there's no reason to believe it would cause the same types of blockages.  This isn’t to say that excess fiber cannot cause other problems (too much of anything can be bad!), but the idea that it works exactly the same as in humans doesn’t make sense.
 
Furthermore, oats do not really contain that much fiber.  They are only about 11% fiber, which is in line with what hamsters need on a daily basis anyway.  So even a diet of 100% oats would not provide "too much" fiber (though it would cause many other problems, such as malnutrition, so obviously this is not advised!).
 

MYTH - Lentils are bad for hamsters, because they contain toxic chemicals.

FACT - Lentils are perfectly safe, because the "toxic" chemicals are unlikely to be harmful to hamsters
 

Let's start with the supposed "toxic" chemicals.  The compounds in question are called lectins, which are specific types of proteins.  Lectins act as plants' defenses against insect pests--they're a natural compound that discourages bugs from feeding on them.  Some people believe that lectins can cause varying degrees of digestive troubles in certain sensitive human beings (this is very much debatable, however).  And it is true that lentils are very high in lectins.
 
Here's the problem with lentils supposedly being toxic to hamsters.  Nearly everything that we feed our hamsters is high in lectins.  Because they are plant defenses, all seeds, nuts, and legumes are positively loaded with them.  This includes the wheat that makes up our hamsters food pellets, the peas that give them protein, the sunflower seeds that give them healthy fats.  It makes little sense to say that lentils are bad for hamsters, because in all likelihood, they're getting way more lectins in their daily diet than in a small pinch of lentils.
 
It may possibly be true that feeding extremely high-lectin foods like lentils and beans in very high quantities can cause health problems.  However, yet again, we come to the idea of moderation.  As long as the hamster isn't getting tons and tons of lentils, there's no reason to believe that they are harmful. 
 

MYTH - An overweight hamster should be given less food to help it lose weight
FACT - Hamsters do not overeat, and should always be given free access to healthy food
 

Hamsters typically get fat because of what they eat, not how much they eat.
 
Hamsters do not generally overeat.  They are able to store their food pretty much indefinitely, so they have no reason to gorge on food.  A hamster will only eat as much as it needs to.  If you have a hamster that eats 10g of food per day, it's only going to eat 10g / day, regardless of whether you give it 10g, 50g, or 100g of food.

 

As with most things, there are exceptions to every rule.  Hamsters can sometimes overeat in extreme situations (like very high levels of stress, certain illnesses, etc.), but this is pretty rare.
 
If your hamster is overweight, it probably isn't because of overeating.  It could be a health issue, lack of exercise, or the type of food that's being fed.

Tips On Photographing Your Hamster

(or any other subject)

After a few years of practicing and learning, I've been able to pick up some tips & techniques on how to get better photos and would like to pass those on to you. I do not claim to be a professional, nor do I follow the rules 100% of the time. We also must understand that different cameras will give different results and a lot of it *does* depend on a good camera - I’m not going to lie to you - but many of these tips are things anyone can do to improve their photos, no matter what their skill level or equipment happens to be.

There is a vast amount of material that we could cover and go over, but in order to prevent confusion or avoid overwhelming anyone, this article is going to be kept as simple and basic as possible. If you are at a more advanced level and have questions or wish to talk further, please leave your comments below and I will do my very best to answer them or provide additional help.

Ready? Here we go!

==========================

Tip #1: Let there be light!

Light is the most important aspect of taking good pictures. Without it, a normally beautiful subject can look flat, boring, grainy, and unflattering. Another good reason you need light is to prevent that dreaded camera blur - especially with fast animals such as hamsters. So, before you even think about clicking that shutter to take a photo, you want to have access to as much light as you can possibly find. This might include:

Tungsten light (Regular household lamps, desk lights, or overhead lights. This light type produces an orange tint.)




Fluorescent light (Found in some kitchens and studio light kits. This light type varies slightly, from bulb to bulb, but typically produces a greenish or bluish tint and gives better results then tungsten does.)


Window or daylight (Pretty self-explanatory! This is usually the most flattering, natural light you can use - provided you aren't in direct sunlight which is too harsh. Typically the camera does a fine job adjusting for this type of light, but varying weather will give different results. A sunny day gives a warmer temperature then an overcast day, which would have a cooler tint. Don't worry about the tint right now, so much as the amount of light and it's intensity.)


Flash (This can be either on-board flash or an added, external unit. If used properly, it can give great results with the most control and is available for use at any time of day. When it comes to photographing animals, you do want to use caution whenever popping a flash. More details on this subject further down the page. There will also be a bonus DIY diffuser for those of you with SLR cameras.)

==========================

Now that we've covered the most common light types you might use, I will now show you some examples of the different results you might get from each one. For these examples, I will be using an (almost) life-size, plush hamster who has been trained to sit still at all times. Let's call him "Squiggles." If you get bored easily, you might be tempted to skip this part, but I feel it's very important to show a visual reference of the different results you can achieve with lights and color temperature.

EXAMPLES:

1.

In this photo, I want you to notice the general lack of light and how Squiggle's eyes are practically non-existent as they fall into the shadows. This is how many people take photos because our eyes see a much wider range of light and color then our camera sees. Also, do you see how tungsten light creates that awful, orangey tint? Yes, it *could* be fixed in Photoshop if you know how to use it properly, but let's try and improve our photo first, before relying on Photoshop.

2.

Now we've added one desk light, off to the side. Does it add more light?....not much. Does it look horrible still?....yes! Notice the harsh shadows that are distracting and take away from the main subjects you are trying to show. Also, the orange tint just got worse.

3.

Ok, now we're starting to bring more light in and it's looking better in terms of softening those shadows. At this point, this set up *could* work if it's all you have, but you want to do one thing - that would be to change your camera's white balance setting to "Tungsten". What this does is to neutralize the orange. Just don't forget to change it back once your photo shoot is over with! Another option would be to fix it in Photoshop, as mentioned earlier. In fact, there will be a basic tutorial included at the end of this post, showing how to color correct in one click.

4.

Now we're moving on to a different light type - fluorescent. There is one light only and as you can see, the nasty orange coloring has gone away! It looks much better already, but......there is a lot we can improve on. The shadows are very harsh, once again, and we need to bring light back into Squiggle's eyes. This is where a 2nd light or a reflector comes in handy. Fluorescent lights, in general, tend to be brighter and higher wattage then the tungsten ones do, by the way.

5.

Ok, NOW we are finally getting somewhere and seeing good results, wouldn't you agree? Technically, the shadows could be filled in more if the fill light (on the right side) was brought in closer, but this is just a rough example and is not showing a perfectly tweaked set up. The white balance is pretty spot on and wouldn't need much adjusting, if any. This is the setup I most use for my own hamster photos - the reason being because it is a constant, steady light as opposed to using flash. With small animals, you do want to be careful about popping a bright flash too often or in too close of a range, as it could cause serious problems; perhaps even blindness or seizures.

6.

YUCK! We're back to horrible photos again. Most every camera has an on-board flash. This is the one that tends to fire automatically if it is dark in the room, and it gives rather ghastly results that are unflattering, if I do say so myself! I highly recommend you don't ever use this silly thing, because 90% of the time it will result in amateurish photos.

7.

Another example of the same. Sometimes the flash will blow out your subject completely or create those harsh, rim shadows that you see in this photo.

8.

Do you see the difference in this photo compared to the previous one? The shadows are softer, the highlights are more natural, and over all you can't even tell that a flash was used because it is spread over a larger area. This is a technique for advanced photographers who have the capabilities to use an external flash with their camera. An external flash looks like the middle photo posted up above, under the "Flash" section. Some of the top level, compact cameras have a hot shoe mount for small units, so read up on it and see if yours has the capability.

9.

To improve the last photo and take it even one step further, the on camera flash was popped up and set to a very low power setting. This allows it to be used as a fill flash rather then a main flash, and it adds a bit of sparkle to the hamster's eye. As before, the external flash unit was bounced on the ceiling. If you don't have a way to bounce your flash, you can try taping a thin piece of paper or tissue over your camera's flash to try and diffuse it a bit. I can't guarantee good results, but you might have success on occasion.


I do not have an example of daylight or window light, since we all know what that looks like and it does vary greatly from location to location. Reflectors, mirrors, silver car windshield protectors, or even a simple piece of white foam board can serve well to bounce light into shadows. Trial and error is the best way to learn. Lastly, avoid mixing various types of lights. As you've learned, different lights have different color balances. If you have a tungsten light on one side and a window on the other, your photo will be half orange-y and half bluish; not very pretty!


Tip #2: Watch your background.

It's easy to get carried away and so focused on our subject (and how cute they are!) that we completely neglect the background. How many times have you seen photos of an adorable toddler.......with random people walking in the background, or a plant "growing" out of someone's head? The same goes for hamster photos. Try to clear out some of those toys in their cage or books on your coffee table. You want your viewer to spot your subject, not the half-empty glass of juice in the background!

==========================

- DON'T clutter your photo with unnecessary items.
- DO clear your background out and keep things simple.




- DON'T include things that distract from your subject.
- DO zoom in or crop your photo to minimize distracting elements.




Tip #3: Learn your camera settings

Shooting on "auto" probably isn't the best way to improve your photography. It means your camera decides how to shoot the scene and many times it is wrong. It either pops a flash if you don't want it, it underexposes if you're shooting in a large, white area, or it chooses a slow shutter speed which creates a blurred image. Learning the basics of all your settings is a great place to start and I promise you if I can understand it, then any person in the universe can also. A great site to get started with reading tips and learning controls is: http://digital-photo...ers-should-know You can also search your camera model online and find the manual to read up on it.




Tip #4: Use a tripod and a fast shutter speed, if possible.

A shutter speed that is fast enough to capture motion without much blur is usually at least 1/125th of a second. With dwarf hamsters, something faster then that works even better such as 1/250th of a second. Again, this is another reason to use manual and not auto controls. Your camera may not choose a fast enough speed for what you need and this is why many photos turn out blurred - that, and not enough light. Using a tripod prevents any extra movement from unsteady hands.






Tip #5: Watch your composition.

With something like hamsters, it's practically impossible to know where they will move for you to plan your composition. Sometimes you can get lucky and have them end up in the right place at the right time, but not often! With practice, you can train yourself to automatically see these things until it becomes second nature.

==========================

1. Consider giving your hamster "space" to look into. Rather then positioning your hamster's face near the edge of the photo, give a little space so the photo doesn't feel cramped.



2. Remember the "rule of thirds". The rule of thirds does not have to be a rule, but it can be a good suggestion at times. Next time, instead of placing your hamster smack in the middle of the photo, try imagining a grid in your head, and place the subject roughly at one of the corresponding points. It can make for a much more interesting photo!



3. Try taking photos from a new angle



4. Capture the details that make your hamster cute.



Tip #6: Don't be afraid to mess up or learn.

With today's digital technology, it allows us to shoot whatever we want, as much as we want, without spending excess money on buying film or getting it developed. It also means you can view your photos instantly, which is an excellent learning tool. Perhaps you shot a few pictures and upon viewing them, you realize your shutter speed is too slow. You can then learn from your mistake, fix the settings, and re-shoot until you are satisfied. Don't be afraid to research or ask questions - for this is how you learn and improve!


Tip #7: HAVE FUN!

This is the most important one of all!

==========================
 

Bonus Photoshop Tutorial

(fixing white balance)

Bonus DIY Diffuser for SLR flash

(easy and cheap)

Note: These photo examples are very old and low quality, but you will get a general idea of this homemade diffuser and how it works.

I hope you have enjoyed this article and tutorial. Kudos to anyone who managed to read the whole thing! Thank you for being willing to learn and try new things. Best of luck with becoming a better photographer and please don't hesitate to ask questions!

The Classic Scenario

You've brought home a brand new pet , be it a rat , hamster , gerbil , etc. You've let the little critter explore it's cage and you're resisting the urge to go scoop them up and attempt to hold them without being bitten. You've heard the shelter employees, the breeders, or the sales associate tell you "Leave them alone for a few days so they can adjust" but who can resist the cute little faces the sweet animals can have? Some may be already tame when they come home. Some may need time. So what do you do?

Well, it's best to close that cage and leave them to their own worlds for a day or two. There are a lot of advantages to it.

The Vicious Biter

If you've brought home a vicious biter, this is going to benefit you a lot. Some hamsters may be scared to the point where they get nervous and fearful and begin squeaking. It sounds like they're crying and very upset , clearly not liking the current situation at hand. The hamster may even attempt to jump out of your hands no matter how high up they are. Don't rush it. Leave them for a few days and let them calm down all on their own and then slowly begin the taming process. Linked is a thread that has excellent taming tips that can help you start creating that special bond.

If not left alone , the vicious biting hamster could get worse, which means that a high amount of stress has been building up. Too much stress can cause a hamster to stop wanting to eat and stop wanting to explore. It can affect their health as a result and can become a severe case of illness if left alone for too long.

The Skittish Sneaker

Have you brought home a hamster that is skittish beyond imaginable? Well, think again because it can be fixed. Let them adjust to their new habitats for a day or two. This allows them to be able to explore and memorize their newfound territory. They may even begin to scent mark certain places as a result. By leaving them alone , they will slowly calm down their nerves by themselves. If possible, please place some used bedding into the habitat so that their transition is made a lot easier.

If left in a skittish nature , they can almost be compared to a robo. A hamster of high speed and difficult to tame. The hamster may even begin to bite you out of fear. By slowly introducing them your presence and scent (Soft spoken words or scented tissue) , you are able to begin the taming process. If you did not wait , you may push them even further into their skittish personalities which can mean that it could be difficult to even coax them out of hiding.

The Bonded Pair / Group

These hamsters are a special case. They render both easy and difficult at the same moment of time. There can be one hamster that is extremely outgoing and needs no time for taming. There can also be that one hamster that is as skittish as can be. There may even be a vicious biter somewhere in the mix. It is strongly recommended to take it slow with a pair or a group because if done correctly , it is possible to tame all the hamsters within days of each other. A more submissive and shy hamster may follow in the example of the braver and more dominant sibling.

If both of them appear difficult to tame , you can not rush things at all. By one hamster having a fearful experience, the other may come to associate you as a threat as well which can lead you back to square one. You may have to restart the taming process at this moment in time. By taking it slow, you can prevent it and create a very solid and smooth experience for both you and the hamsters in question.

Conclusion

Believe it or not , many people can relate to you on how bad the urge to interact with them the moment they come home is. They may even be able to tell you stories on how difficult it was to tame a certain hamster. Each hamster is different and has their very own individual personality. This means that you may have to change around your taming methods for each individual hamster to achieve the best results. It's always best to take it slow rather than rush and make it an unenjoyable experience for both owner and pet. By being slow and steady , you'll be on your way to bonding with your hamster to the fullest of extents! Best of luck!

In cases of an emergency evacuation, hamsters (along with other caged small animals) are completely dependent on us humans to get them out of danger.  If we do not get them out, they have no means of escape.  Below are some tips on how to evacuate your hamsters safely and securely (tested during a recent apartment fire). 

 

Those of you who already have an emergency plan in place, please feel free to add your ideas.  And if any of you had to evacuate your small pets, please share your experiences, and what did and didn’t work for you. 

 

REMEMBER, YOUR SAFETY COMES FIRST!  If you are unable to get your hamsters out in time, please do not put yourself in danger!  Alert emergency personnel that you have pets trapped inside, and they will do what they can.

 

Prepping for an emergency evacuation:

 

Speed is critical during an evacuation, especially in cases of fire.  You do not want to waste time searching for or gathering up necessary supplies.  I highly recommend keeping the following right next to your hamster's habitat.  If you are able to reach your hamster, you will then have everything you need nearby.

 

1)  An easy-to-carry travel carrier.  Something lightweight but sturdy, and not too big.  Ideally you should be able to carry it in one hand.  I use this for my dwarf and the medium-sized this for my syrian.

 

2)  A "Bug Out Bag" - Biscotti's explanation below:

 

I also highly recommend preparing a BOB (Bug Out Bag) to put next to the cage.  Some ideas to put in there:

 

A bottle of drinking water (or more)

Small ziplock bag of dried food

Small ziplock bag of clean bedding

Emergency contact information (regular and emergency vet info in your area)

Medication (if your pet is taking any)

 

Keep it lightweight and easy to grab in a hurry. 

 

If you have multiple hamsters living in separate cages, EACH habitat should have its own travel carrier.  I wouldn’t recommend tossing all the hamsters into one carrier, especially if you have a mix of genders and species.  If you end up with more carriers you can carry in one go, find a sturdy box or bin you can fit them all into, and keep that near the habitats as well.  However, after you have evacuated to a safe location, remember to take the carriers out from the box/bin!  There may not be enough air ventilation if you keep them in there too long.

 

For those of you who have a single easy-to-carry hamster habitat, you might not need a carrier and can just evacuate with his/her entire setup.  Make sure you can easily go through doorways and up/down stairs with it though.

 

During an evacuation:

 

When evacuating your hamsters, the most important thing is to get them out safely and securely!  Their food, water, and supplies are all secondary.  If you have time or a free hand to grab the container of food and bottle of water, definitely bring them.  BUT if there is imminent danger (especially during a fire), leave them!  Just get your hamster and go.  You can always buy supplies later - your hamster will survive just fine without them in the short term.

 

You do want to try to evacuate your hamster in the previously mentioned carrier.  The last thing you want is to lose your pet in the chaotic aftermath of an evacuation.  If possible, use the “scoop method” to remove your hamster from his/her cage.  Hamsters may bite if they sense you are scared, or if you abruptly wake them up.

 

If you have time though, a couple other things you can do in addition to grabbing the emergency supply of food and water are:

 

- Dump the food dish in the carrier.  In addition to having food, you can later use the bowl for water

. 

- Pop a couple handfuls of bedding from the habitat into the carrier.  The familiar smells from the bedding should help keep the stress levels down and provide a bit of comfort.

 

- Include a hidey if the carrier is large enough to accommodate it. 

A Guide To Responsible Pet Ownership

This is by no means an exhaustive list, but my hope is to cover a lot of common issues with having pets. We all have different lives with our own responsibilities and schedules. Whether you are reading this after years of hamster keeping or are considering one for the first time, the same rules apply. In fact, many of these can be applied to any pet species, not just hamsters.

Remember, most pets, especially small animals, are going to live significantly shorter lives than you. Your new family member, though she may only be around for a few years of your life, is going to spend her entire life with you. By adopting a pet you are taking on the responsibility of making sure that little life is cared for as best as possible. Sometimes that means sacrifices of your own, adapting yourself to your pet's needs, or making a really big effort to provide the right supplies. Sometimes, that means not adopting the pet at all.

Please keep in mind when reading that this thread is not meant to condemn anyone who may find themselves doing the exact things I'm describing. I especially am not going to judge you for mistakes when you had perfectly innocent intentions. What is important is how you use this information in the future. Will you consider what I'm saying, work to fix these problems? Or will you dismiss it?

With that in mind, here are the basic points to consider in responsible pet ownership:

Your Household
You need to be completely aware and honest about the environment you are bringing your new pet into. It is not fair to adopt a pet that is unwanted by the rest of the family, and it is irresponsible to bring them into a hostile or even dangerous environment.

Some common concerns:

● My parents don't want a hamster. Don't insist on bringing a pet into a place where it's not wanted. Your parents are doing what they're suppose to do - they're parenting. Pets are a privilege, not a right, and if your parents say no then the first thing you should do is respect that decision. Wait. Don't nag, and don't get mad. Instead, learn about the pet, research, educate yourself. Your enthusiasm and dedication will be visible. If or when your parents change their minds, you will have the advantage of being more aware of the hamster's needs, which will result in a happier hamster and a happier you.

● My parents don’t believe in proper hamster care. This is especially important if your parents are paying for the expenses of owning a hamster. If your parents are going to force you to use unsafe or unsuitable items (too small cages, low-quality food, unsafe bedding and cage accessories), wouldn’t it be better for a hamster to go to a home where it can be safe, healthy, and happy? Again, it simply isn’t fair to bring an animal into a situation where it isn’t going to have proper care. This is something that needs to be discussed before getting a hamster. Everyone needs to be on the same page with the care being provided.

● My brother/sister won't listen when I tell them to leave my hamster alone. It is not fair or right to bring a hamster into an environment that you know might be unsafe. If you don't trust them, it would be better to wait until they've grown up and learned a little more about playing safe.

● I don't have time to let it out to play. Your pet needs interaction. Before getting a hamster, make sure you have time available, whether that means reallocating TV time, or building play time into other activities, such as your homework time.


● I have to hide my hamster from my parents/roommate/landlord/dorm floor leader because I'm not supposed to have one. This one is very simple - do not get a pet if it is not allowed in the house. Your pet should not have to live in a closet. It should not have to hide and lose human interaction. Sure, you get to say "I have a hamster", but the hamster is the one paying for that. Pets are not toys and should not be treated as one.

● I don’t have space in my small room for a big cage. The space a hamster needs does not change based on what you can or cannot provide. If you can’t provide at least the bare minimum cage size, a hamster is not the right pet for you.


If you face these or any similar situations, remember that there is a difference between "want" and "need.” An animal’s need of a healthy environment comes before your want of getting it ASAP. Understanding this is the first step to being a responsible owner.

Yourself
Again, be honest. Why do you want a pet? Babies grow up. Novelty gets old. If it's an impulse decision, stop right now. Wait a week, make sure you are actually interested and not just enamored by the idea of something new and cute.

Even if you have grown up around animals and have always had them in your home as I have, it is still good to be reminded that pets are a lot of work and every animal deserves your commitment. Make sure that each pet currently in your home is cared for, before considering an addition. I will be honest, I am a sucker for a cute face and would love to have a dozen cats and dogs and horses and hamsters, but I will not adopt more than I have now because, simply, it would mean compromising the care I give to each. It would be selfish of me to adopt another, and I'm able to recognize that in spite of my wants. The animals' needs come before my wants.

If your finances are stretched, if you are already busy, if your other pets still need some improvement in care, then it's time to redirect that enthusiasm you have for the potential new fella, back toward your existing furry family.

There are times as well when we are disillusioned once we bring the new hamster home. Maybe it bites, or never wants to play. Maybe it's too much work. Unfortunately, those thoughts happen to many, but it's important to remember that you took on a responsibility, and it is your responsibility to see it through. There is a difference between rehoming a pet because it needs a better home, and rehoming because the pet was inconvenient to you. Pets are not merchandise to be exchanged. Whether it's because the new guy is a bar biter or because there is a prettier one back at the store, remember that you promised to give this one a happy home. If you break your promise, guess who gets punished? The hamster does.

Finances
This is a big one. Everything costs money. And though we can offset the costs by being frugal, in the end cost is still a significant part of pet ownership. Yes, there are varying opinions on what to buy (aspen vs Carefresh, Silent Spinner vs Comfort Wheel). But the fact remains that you need money to care for your pet.

I'm not saying you have to have a lot of money. You don't have to be wealthy to be a pet owner. But you have to have a reasonable budget. You wouldn’t go into a car dealership and say “I want to buy a brand new car, and my budget is $100.” Nor can you take the first steps into hamster ownership, and claim that your budget is $50 for everything.

It is unfair, irresponsible, and cruel to take in an animal without a means to care for it properly. Harsh? Maybe a little... but 100% realistic. As I said at the beginning, you are determining the quality of this animal's entire life, and being responsible means putting its needs before your wants. If you can't meet those needs, wouldn't you rather the little guy in the pet store go to a home that can?

You need to be able to provide for a hamster’s basic needs.

● Spacious housing. No one is going to be shamed for not buying the Cadillac - ahem I mean Detolf - but it is important that your hamster is comfortable and happy. Don't compromise just because you have to have the hamster now - get the right supplies first, so the hamster does not have to deal with the wrong ones. It may not seem like a big deal to some of us, maybe to use the 10 gallon for a few months until we can buy the bigger tank, but then, we're not the ones living in there are we? Two months in a 10 gallon tank is like you being locked in your bedroom for two years... not the whole house, just the bedroom.

● Healthy food. Super cheap food is rarely healthy food. It may cost less short-term, but is it going to keep your hamster healthy? Probably not. However I have noticed a good trend with the pricier food - since it has more nutrients, they will sometimes eat less of the food, offsetting cost.

● Safe bedding. Safe bedding types (aspen, paper bedding) do tend to be more expensive than the unsafe types. Also, hamsters use a lot of bedding, so it ends up being one of the major costs of ownership. Plan accordingly, as cleanliness is one of the most important parts of keeping your hamster healthy.

● Safe, properly-sized wheel. A wheel is an absolute necessity for hamsters. Good-quality, quiet, large wheels can be surprisingly expensive.

● Water bottle and food bowl. While not incredibly expensive, these are items that do cost money and need to be purchased.

● Chews. Very much a hidden cost of owning a hamster. While chews are generally inexpensive, some hamsters can be very picky. Finding the right one can mean buying many that the hamster won’t even touch. This is part of hamster ownership.

If you cannot afford these items at the very least…you cannot responsibly own a hamster. The good this is that you can save up and have these items purchased long before bringing the hamster home. Remember, plan ahead!

Replacements are often necessary! Wheels break, cages are chewed out of, water bottles prove to be leaky or stop up, bedding causes allergies (and of course gets used up!), and so on. You need to be in a financial position where you can not only purchase the basics, but also replace them as needed. If something like a $20 wheel or $10 bag of food is a huge financial burden to you, you’re going to run into problems. You don't have to have a large income, but you should have money set aside for these emergency expenses.


Accessibility
The items listed above need to not only be affordable to you, but accessible. If none of the pet stores you can go to offer decent supplies, try the Internet. There are many online stores to choose from (Amazon is my favorite). If you're worried, most offer buyer protection, but at the very least your credit card company protects you from fraud. If you’re not allowed to order online, and have no other way of getting supplies… you need to reconsider whether a hamster is for you.


Vet care
This was going to be a bullet under "finances" but I think it needs its own section.

Vet care is not optional. It is mandatory, and it is irresponsible to purchase or adopt a hamster without knowing that you can provide vet care.

It is not unattainable, it is not impossibly expensive... and it does have to be accounted for. Accidents and illness do happen. You have to be prepared for that. Your ability, your willingness to spend the money for that medication may very well be a life or death decision for your pet.
If you don't have the income, then you need to save up for emergencies. If you don't know a good vet, then you need to find one. If you rely on other people, then you need to make sure that they are able and willing themselves to get your hamster vet care when it's needed.
Know your resources, know what is available and what you'll have to do at home. Some things are perfectly treatable at home, but if you end up in a situation that's not then you have to make sure that money, or being unprepared, isn't an obstacle. Nothing feels worse than watching a pet suffer because you didn't plan ahead. So always, always make sure a vet is an available option. In the end, it's just paper, while your pet is a living, breathing creature. Is paper really that important?


I know this was long-winded, but a very big thank you to everyone who reads it all the way through. We are all here because we want the best for our pets, and sometimes we each need reminded what is really, truly most important.

Getting Started

Step 1



Start a new topic!


Step 2



Enter the Topic Title, Relevant tags and content in your post!

You will now want to go to a photo uploading site, here are my top two:

(1) Photobucket
(2) Flickr

Photobucket

Step 1

Go to www.photobucket.com


Step 2

Either make an account or log on to your existing one!



Step 3

Chose the "Upload" Option



Step 4

Now either drag you images to the "box" or click "Browse Files"



Step 5- Browse Files Option

Find your image location i.e where the image is.

To select one file, Click on that image and click open. To select multiple files either ctrl click or click and drag!



Step 6

When the upload is finished you will see a heading called "Direct Link" copy that code (crtl+c or right click copy)



Global Photo Upload

Step 1

Look for an image of a tree on the interface below tags:



Step 2

Paste (Ctrl+V or Right Click Paste) the "Direct Link" into the url field:




Step 3

​Your image will appear on screen then you can continue writing your post and the click submit to make your post go live!

Deleting Image

Treat the image like text, to delete it just select it and press "back space"

Tutorial Information

This isn't complete, I want to show you how to use flickr and other sites but for now here is a basic tutorial! Also I want to show you how to add images from websites.

Direct Link means that when you paste the link to just say a browser only one image will appear and the website and code will not be seen example:

http://hamsterhideout.com/forum//public/style_images/master/hhf.jpg

UPLOADING FROM PHONE

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oh no! Animal Abuse!

A public service announcement

Maybe you're at the pet store, a friend's house, or perusing YouTube, then WHAM! You see it. The barred wheel. The cohabiting Syrians. The casual breeding. The dyed fur. The rough play or the straight up dangerous behavior.



What do you do?



We will all run into one of these situations at some point. We might be shocked sad or even furious But how we react to these situations very much determines the outcome.


We all have two options:

1. THINK before you speak.
Is it True?
Is it Helpful?
Is it Inspiring?
Is it Necessary?
Is it Kind?

Just because someone does something they shouldn't, it's not true to assume they are a bad person. Sometimes people do things simply because they don't know any better Maybe they let their hamsters have play dates or they use a mesh wheel. That's ignorance (a lack of knowing), not abuse.
When we see this, we want to be helpful. To do that we can provide the person the tools they need to fix the situation. Remember, it doesn't help to tell someone everything they're doing is wrong if you don't tell them how to do it right.
In fact, why not offer your service - go shopping with them, or help them build that bin cage? Your offer might inspire them to learn even more and make bigger changes for the better.
Just remember that newbies can - and do - get overwhelmed very quickly. If they need a lot of help, stick with what is necessary - separate cages for the boy and girl before insisting on upgrading the size, or change the Cedar bedding before pushing for a food switch. Small steps, over time, will do more good than one giant step that the person is too afraid to take.
Lastly, remember that no matter what the situation, no matter the advice, no one will listen if you are not kind You are trying to do good, so do it in a good way. There's no point in saying anything if, in the same breath, you are pushing them away. Teach them, don't ridicule, and they will appreciate it.


2. Sometimes we just have to walk away.
Sometimes the situation is truly bad. Real abusers do it just to get attention, so for goodness sake don't reward them with the exact thing they want! If there is an authority you can report to - whether it is the person's parent, the teacher that owns the classroom pet, or the website's moderating team - then bring the situation to their attention. Craigslist, YouTube, Facebook, and most other social sites all have methods to report abusive or dangerous behavior, cutting off that attention the person is so desperately seeking. Report it, send some good vibes to the animals, and let the authorities take care of it.





"Oh look at this person and the poor hamster! People like this just make me so mad!"

What are you really trying to accomplish? Does talking about how bad they are really do anything? In truth, talking about other people being wrong - without trying to help them make it right - only makes the talker look snobby. It also destroys any chance of helping that person, that hamster, and anyone who might be making the same mistake - anyone who would have listened to you, had they not read your awful opinion of them. Remember, you were a newbie once too. You didn't deserve ridicule then, and neither do they, now.

Hey guys!  I've seen a lot of people requesting websites to order hamster supplies off of, so I thought I would go ahead and compile all of those websites into one thread! I've gone ahead and split them into country groups, so you can easily find your country and choose a website.   (These are not all of the websites out there! If you think you have another good website, just let me know! Also, if a link is no longer working, please let me know and I will remove it) 

EDIT: I will no longer be putting other websites up. If you have a good website, please just comment it down below. The flow of website suggestions is becoming too much. Thanks!

 

United States

http://petstore.com (<< Use code "WELCOMEBACK10" for 10% off of order!)

http://petdiscounters.com

http://drsfostersmith.com

http://wag.com

http://petmountain.com

http://pet360.com

http://www.zoeyandlilostoybox.com/

http://www.petco.com

http://www.amazon.com

http://www.ebay.com

http://www.petsmart.com

http://binkybunny.com/STORE/tabid/163/Default.aspx (<< Use code "BINKY" at checkout for 10% off whole order!)

http://www.bobbysbunnyboutique.com/

http://www.petsolutions.com 

http://www.thatpetplace.com/

https://www.chewy.com/b/small-pet-977 

 

United Kingdom (And other European countries)

http://www.viovet.co.uk (<< Highly recommended!)
http://www.zooplus.co.uk
http://www.vetuk.co.uk
http://www.petplanet.co.uk 

http://www.petsathome.com

http://www.amazon.com

http://www.pet-supermarket.co.uk/

http://www.gumtree.com/pets

http://petbliss.ie/  (Ireland)

https://m.facebook.com/pages/Hop-Nibble-Squeek/167152976769589?id=167152976769589&refsrc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Fpages%2FHop-Nibble-Squeek%2F167152976769589  (They don't have a website, you order off of Facebook)

https://www.ratrations.com/ 

http://www.chinchillas2shop.co.uk

http://www.arkenzoo.se (Sweden)

http://www.zooplus.se (Sweden)

http://www.hemfoder.se (Sweden)

http://www.animail.se (Sweden)

http://www.galensgarden.co.uk/shop/

http://www.zooplus.de/ (Germany)

http://zooplus.ie (Ireland)

http://www.reptiles.swelluk.com/  (Best for cage accessories)

http://www.littlepetwarehouse.co.uk/

http://www.farmandpetplace.co.uk

 

Canada

http://www.bobbysbunnybotique.com

http://www.amazon.ca

http://www.ebay.com

http://www.petsmart.com

http://www.zoeyandlilostoybox.com

http://www.petvalu.com

http://www.renspets.com

http://www.petonly.ca/

http://www.kijiji.ca

http://chinchilla.ca/

http://www.petsolutions.com 

 

Asia

http://www.amazon.com

http://wholesale-pet-supplies.hktdc.com/

https://www.tokopedia.com/revenpetshop

https://www.tokopedia.com/hamsbreed-bdg

I usually do not like starting announcement topics for individuals but it seems that I have no other choice.

I’m not sure why you think you can keep creating new accounts and be allowed back within such a short timeframe, claiming to have changed for the better.

Do you think it’s right to come back with a whole new personality as if you are a newly signed up, previously lurking person? Isn’t it strange to interact with former friends and pretend that you are new to the forum culture such as blogs?

Please think about it. And please stay away for now. For a few years. Thank you.

This thread is part of a multi-thread series on hamster nutrition.  Originally Parts I, II, III, and IV were originally written as one thread, but were split due to length.  For this reason, the guide works best if the threads are read in their numbered order.  However this is not strictly necessary, as each thread can stand on its own as well.
 
Below, you will see a listing of the different threads in the series and links to them:
 
[HAMSTER NUTRITION I] Nutrition, Variety, and Quality
[HAMSTER NUTRITION II] Food Mixing
[HAMSTER NUTRITION III] Calculating the Guaranteed Analysis of a Mixed Diet
[HAMSTER NUTRITION IV] Commercial Food List
[HAMSTER NUTRITION V] Safe and Unsafe Foods for Hamsters 
 
Credits - Sincere thanks to Christmas_hamster, the creator of the original Master Food List which inspired this project.  Next, nebit had an enormous role in developing, editing, and improving these threads.  Finally, HoppingHammy and tbiM20 also offered tons of editing, advice, and contributions.  Thank you all for your help--this wouldn't have been possible without you!
 
 
 WHAT MAKES A "GOOD" HAMSTER DIET?

 

On this forum in the past, the answer to this question was very simple - nutrition.  That is, the amount of protein, fat, and fiber in the food.  If hamster food had exactly the right amount of protein, fat, and fiber, it was automatically considered a good food.  If it did not, it was automatically considered a bad food.  

 

However, this is an overly simplistic way to think about diet.  While nutrition is extremely important, there are other factors worth considering.  A food can have good nutrition but use terrible-quality ingredients.  And hamsters, being foragers, need variety in their diets as well.

 

As such, we currently look at 3 main factors to evaluate a hamster food:
 
Nutrition – The overall levels of protein, fat, and fiber in the food
Variety – The number of whole ingredients and their abundance in the food
Quality – The uniqueness, nutrition, and safety of individual ingredients
 
 
NUTRITION
 

The very first thing you should look at in a hamster food is its nutritional profile, also known as the Guaranteed Analysis.  This is the label that will tell you how much fat, protein, and fiber are in the food. 
 
Below are Hamster Hideout's recommendations:
 
Protein - 17% - 19% for most adults, 20% - 24% for growing animals under 6 months

There is no one set percentage of protein that is right for every hamster and every situation.  Protein needs can vary by age, species, and individual.  For example, some elderly hamsters (2+ years) may need less protein, though this is not the case for all, or even most, animals.  Younger hamsters (up to ~1 year) will often need higher levels of protein for growth and development.  Hamsters in poor health from certain diseases may need more protein for energy and recovery.  Other diseases—like kidney disease, for example—require lower protein levels.  Anecdotally, Roborovski’s dwarf hamsters are assumed to need more protein, due to their extremely high activity level and metabolism. 
 
It is useful to think of protein as a range, rather than a single number.  There is no “one size fits all” protein percentage.  However, what this also means is that not every protein level in the given range is going to be appropriate for a single hamster.  For example, 15% protein may be fine for a very elderly hamster, but it is in no way appropriate for a growing pup or even a healthy adult.  Conversely, 24% protein is great for a young pup, but probably not necessary (and even potentially harmful) to an elderly hamster.
 
The extreme ends of the range are applicable to very specific situations.  At most health levels and life stages, protein should be between 17% and 19%.
 
Fat - 4% - 7%
Fat is typically not a problem, but there are foods that have either too little or too much fat.  While too much fat is an obvious problem, too little fat can be just as bad.  Fat is needed in proper levels for energy and various biological functions.  Different animals may need different levels of fat.  One hamster may have weight gain issues on a diet of 7% fat, while another hamster may do just fine on it.  
 
Fiber - 6% - 15%
Fiber is essential for proper digestion.  It's actually thought that low-fiber diets can contribute to stomach issues, because fiber is needed to nourish the beneficial bacteria found in the hamster’s gut.  It's pretty rare to find a hamster food that has too much fiber--too-low fiber is a much bigger concern.
 
Below are sources and citations for these recommendations.  More details (especially about protein in particular) can be found here – On the Topic of Protein and Age
 

 

 

 
VARIETY
Hamsters need variety in their diets, and thrive on foods with different tastes and textures. A hamster's diet must include more than just pellets!  While pellets are a very important and beneficial part of a hamster’s diet, they should not be the only source of nutrition.  
 
Simply put, variety is a measure of how many different whole ingredients are in a food in comparison to the pellets.  First, let's pause a moment to define what whole ingredients and pellets are:

 

Whole ingredients are items in a mix—seeds, nuts, fruits, vegetables, and insects—that have been minimally processed or are provided in their natural form. Basically, anything that's not a pellet is a whole ingredient.

 

Pellets are human-manufactured pieces of food.  They are made by grinding up various ingredients and extruding them into uniform shapes.  It's very similar to how dog food or human breakfast cereals are made.  Pellets can come in many different shapes and textures, and can also be called biscuits or kibble.
 
There are two different measures of variety that should be considered:
 
Raw Variety
This is a simple count of the number of unique whole foods found on the ingredient list.  For example, look at the ingredients list for Hazel Hamster food (excluding vitamins and minerals):

Ground wheat, toasted wheat, flaked peas, soybean meal, whole corn, flaked whole corn, sunflower seeds, flaked soybeans, dehydrated alfalfa meal, peanut kernels, soybean oil, peanuts in shells, pumpkin seeds, soybean hulls, wheat middlings, extruded locust beans...

 
The whole ingredients are underlined.  This food has 8 whole ingredients, so it would have a variety score of 8.
 
One problem when counting ingredients is ingredient splitting.  Ingredient splitting is when several different forms of the same ingredient are treated as completely separate ingredients and listed individually.  For example, you'll notice that Hazel Hamster has whole corn, and then flaked whole corn listed right after it.  These ingredients are the same exact thing - corn.  It's just that the flaked corn is smashed flat.  For this reason, the flaked corn is not counted as a separate ingredient (is not underlined).  The same is true with the peanut kernels and peanuts in shells.

 

Ingredient splitting can make it seem like a food has more variety than it actually does, because more ingredients will be listed.  It can also be used to disguise the true amount of less desirable ingredients.  Splitting allows an undesirable ingredient to be listed lower on the ingredient list.  

 
True Variety
The number of whole ingredients in a mix only tells part of the story.  Ingredient lists tell us what whole ingredients are present in the mix, but they do not tell us the amount of each ingredient in the mix.
 
To assess true variety, we have to consider 2 points:
 
1) How many whole ingredients are there in relation to the pellets?

 

Consider the following image:

 

 

Carefresh Complete Menu is an example of a food with poor true variety.  Note that the sample pictured is almost all pellets.  There are a few seeds and a couple of peas, but the pellets are the overwhelming majority of the food.

 

VitaKraft VitaNature is an example of a food with good true variety.  The sample pictured has a wide variety of whole ingredients.  Even in that small sample, there are at least 6 or 7 different types of seeds and legumes represented.

 

2) Are the whole ingredients found in significant quantities?

 

Just because a whole ingredient is listed does not mean that it is found in significant quantities.  To use an extreme example, a manufacturer can add 1 flaxseed to a 2lb bag and list flaxseed as an ingredient.  But realistically, how much of a difference is that single flaxseed making in the diet?  Basically none.

 

Note the ingredients list for Bunny Dwarf Hamster Dream:

 

Oats, barley, millet, canary seed, pea flakes, corn, wheat bran, oats, barley flakes, sunflower seed meal, silver millet, rice, wheat, alfalfa, carrots, chicken meat, red millet, grass seeds, parsnips, dandelion, calcium carbonate, yarrow, plantain, spent grains, sesame, chamomile flowers, linseeds, carrot residues, beets, brewer's yeast, herring meal, animal fat, inulin, marigold flowers, mealworms (0.3%), chicken liver extract, dried, carob, salmon oil, linseed oil, lecithin, rose petals.
 

This food appears to have amazing variety, because there are many whole ingredients.  However, note the ingredient bolded in red - calcium carbonate.  This is a mineral additive that is used in very, very small quantities.  

 

The problem with this food is that nearly half of the whole ingredients are listed after calcium carbonate in the ingredients list.  What this means is that there are probably very, very few of these ingredients in the mix.  While these ingredients still "count," we have to realize that this makes the variety much less than it at first appears to be.

 

 
QUALITY
Quality is a broad category with several different facets to consider. 
 
Nutrition of Whole Ingredients
Having whole ingredients is important, of course.  But we also have to consider the nutritional quality of the ingredients.  Having lots of whole ingredients is meaningless if all of them are junk food.  Are the ingredients nutritious, or are they just filler? 
 
Let’s take a moment to talk about fillers, because they’re tricky to understand.  A filler is an ingredient that does not offer much in the way of nutrition, vitamins, or minerals - it's basically just empty calories.
 
There's really only 1 filler ingredient that we need to be concerned about.  That is the hard dent corn found in the vast majority of hamster mixes.  Other than being a source of calories, corn provides almost no nutrition.  It has very little protein, little fat, an average amount of fiber, and is fairly low in micronutrients (vitamins and minerals).  Basically, it's just straight-up starch and carbohydrates.  Given that a hamster's diet is largely carbohydrate-based already, corn is not unhealthy for them.  However, it's still not the best-quality ingredient.

 

Part of the issue with fillers is selective feeding.  Selective feeding is when a hamster only eats part of a mix, often because it prefers the taste of certain ingredients.  If a hamster is selectively feeding on fillers, it’s not getting much nutrition.  If it’s selectively feeding on non-filler ingredients, it’s at least getting some nutrition (albeit not balanced).  Selective feeding can be a problem either way, but it becomes worse when there are fillers involved.
 
In the past, it has been recommended to pick out fillers in a mix in order to make it "healthier."  This sounds like a great idea on the surface.  However, it's actually quite harmful.  When fillers are included in a mix, they must be left in.  Commercial foods must be fed as-is, with no removal of ingredients.  That's because these mixes are only nutritionally balanced when fed as a whole.  Everything in the bag (including the fillers) is included in the nutrition of the mix.  Picking fillers out will alter the GA of the food in unpredictable and possibly dangerous ways. 
 
Rather than picking fillers out and unbalancing the mix, it's better to simply purchase a food that does not contain much filler in the first place!  Read the ingredients list!  Is corn high on the list?  Is it split at all?  The fourth part of this series (click here for a link) will help you determine that.
 
Uniqueness of Whole Ingredients
Some ingredients used in hamster food are nearly universal, while others are much less common.  Uniqueness of ingredients is an important step in rating a food, and plays a vital role in mixing foods as well.
 
Consider the following example foods.  Ingredients that are not shared between the foods are highlighted in green.
 
Food A – Corn, peas, pellets, wheat, millet, oats, milo
Food B – Pellets, corn, wheat, oats, millet, milo, raisins
 
If you are feeding Food A to start, there’s very little point in adding Food B to increase variety.  They have basically the same ingredients.  They both have corn, wheat, oats, millet, and milo.  They only thing you would be changing by adding Food B is that the hamster would now get raisins.
 
On the other hand, consider Food C
 
Food C – Pellets, barley, rye, millet, oats, safflower, mung beans
 
Food C has many ingredients not contained in either Food A or B.  Yes, there is some overlap, but Food C has several unique ingredients that are not found in the other foods.
 
Ingredients like oats, wheat, corn, peas, sunflower seeds, and millet are very common in hamster foods.  They aren’t bad, per se—but they aren’t unique.  Whereas ingredients like mung beans and barley are far less common.  A food with more unique ingredients can be considered higher quality, because it’s almost guaranteed to increase variety regardless of what it’s mixed with.
 
Probiotics and Prebiotics
Probiotics and prebiotics are bacteria, yeasts, and enzymes that are beneficial for digestive health.  They are often added to hamster foods, and are found in the form of various “fermentation products” or yeasts.  Their presence in a food is beneficial, although foods without them are not considered unsuitable.
 
Questionable Ingredients
As important as it is to look out for beneficial ingredients, it’s also vital to watch out for less-than-desirable ones.  Click the spoiler button below each questionable ingredient to learn more about it.
 
Sugar

 

Artificial dyes

 

BHT / BHA

Ethoxyquin

 
 
 WHAT MAKES A GOOD HAMSTER DIET
 
Remember the question at the beginning of this article?  It asked what factors contribute to make a good hamster diet.  Well, now we have an answer to that question.  Not only that, we have more or less constructed what an ideal hamster diet looks like...
 
The ideal hamster food (for hamsters over 6 months old)...
 
-Has a protein level of 17% - 19%, a fat level of 4% - 7%, and a fiber level of 6% - 15%
-Has large number of whole, unprocessed ingredients in addition to pellets
-Has probiotics and prebiotics
-Does not contain large amounts of corn or other filler
-Does not contain added sugars, artificial dyes, BHA / BHT / ethoxyquin

Bullying, drama and petty quarrels are not tolerated on HH.

New guide for banned members: You may appeal with a new account once you are over 18 years old.

Thank you and love your hammies!

Hi there!  

 

You might be here because you're wondering about hamster cages and cage sizes.  

You might be here because you're frustrated with the amount of conflicting information you've seen from different sources.  

You might be here because you think our forum's cage sizes are absurd.

You might be here because your child is trying to convince you to allow them to get a bigger cage for their hamster.

 

Regardless of why you’re here, I’m glad you are and I hope I can help.  I’m also honored that you’re taking the time to read this article.

 

I'm not going to claim that this is a magical article that will clarify everything, because it may or may not do that.  However, I do hope that it will shed some light on the issue and help you to decide what you want to do in terms of housing your pet hamster.

 

NOTE: The cage size guidelines given are meant to apply to typical pet owner situations.  They are not meant to be applied to large-scale organizations like breeders and rescues, as it would be physically impossible for these organizations to provide such large enclosures for each animal.  This should be common sense, but it has been brought to our attention that people choose to brigade and harass breeders and rescues for not having maximum-sized cages.  Hamster Hideout does not endorse this type of behavior.

 

Enrichment for Animals

 

Let's first talk about enrichment.  If you’ve ever visited a zoo or aquarium, you might have heard this term from a keeper or read it on a sign.  To put it as simply as possible, captive animals need things to do to keep them mentally and physically occupied.  This is often referred to as enrichment.  An unenriched animal may become bored, depressed, or destructive.  The St. Louis Zoo has a good article about enrichment in zoo animals that is worth a read.  

 

How do animals get enrichment?  Well, when talking about pets, enrichment generally comes from three main sources:

 

-Interaction with same-species animals (two guinea pigs grooming each other)

-Interaction with human keepers (a person playing fetch with their dog)

-Interaction with their environment (a rat using a puzzle toy to get treats)

 

Different animals get their enrichment in different ways - it depends on both the type of animal and the individual situation.  Some animals get most of their enrichment from one or two sources, some get it nearly equally from all three.

 

Challenges of Hamster Enrichment

 

Depending on how much you know about hamsters, you may already see the challenge of enrichment for them.  Hamsters can be difficult animals to keep stimulated, because 2 out of the 3 sources of enrichment are largely unavailable to them.  

 

Most hamsters do not receive enrichment from same-species social interactions.  This is because they are primarily solitary creatures that do best housed alone. Syrian hamsters, for example, are inherently territorial and will kill cagemates at adulthood.  Even species that are not as territorial are very risky to keep in pairs.  This contrasts with nearly all other small mammalian pets.  Rats, mice, gerbils, rabbits, guinea pigs, ferrets, chinchillas...these are all social animals that are typically given a same-species companion in captivity.  Hamsters simply do not have that option.

 

Human interaction is not always a reliable source of enrichment for hamsters.  There are a few reasons for this.  The first is that hamsters are not fully domesticated.  They have only been kept as pets for a few decades, unlike the dogs and cats that have evolved alongside humans for thousands of years.  While hamsters can certainly enjoy human company, they are not highly stimulated by it in the same way a dog would be.  Some hamsters don't even like human contact and will avoid it at all costs.  In addition, hamsters’ primary hours of activity tend to be when their human keepers are asleep, further limiting options for human interaction.

 

That leaves us with the environment.  A hamster’s enrichment relies very heavily on having a stimulating, interesting cage to live in.  This is the heart of why cage size is so important to them – interacting with their environment is their major form of enrichment.

 

Boredom Behaviors and Stereotypies

 

What happens when a hamster is not getting enough enrichment?  If the hamster is not properly stimulated, it will often display undesirable "boredom behaviors."  Some boredom behaviors can also be classed as "stereotypies."  Manteca and Salas 2015 have a pretty good description of stereotypies (relating to zoo animals) here:

 

“Stereotypies are defined in two ways:

 

- Repetitive, invariant behaviour without apparent immediate function.

- Repetitive behaviours caused by the animal’s repeated attempts to adapt to its environment or by a dysfunction of the central nervous system.

 

Both definitions agree that stereotypies are repetitive behaviours. The second definition, however, includes behaviours that despite being repetitive are not always performed in exactly the same way. Moreover, it does not assume that stereotypies lack a functional role; this is particularly relevant because it has been suggested that some stereotypies could facilitate the adaptation of animals to an unsuitable environment.”

 

Boredom behaviors and stereotypies are bad in several ways.  For one, they are an indicator of an unhappy animal.  As pet owners, it is our responsibility to take care of our animals physically and mentally.  Unhappy and stressed animals can be more prone to health problems and have shorter lifespans.

 

In addition, some boredom behaviors and stereotypies can be dangerous, harmful, or destructive to both the hamster and its human keeper. 

 

Typical Hamster Boredom Behaviors and Stereotypies

 

Chewing on the cage – This is a behavior known by many names, including bar-biting and wire-chewing.  In the end, it is all the same behavior – the hamster repeatedly and obsessively chews on its cage.  Although this behavior is typically associated with wire cages, it can occur in any cage type.  If the hamster is housed in an aquarium, for example, it may chew on the silicone sealant in the corners of the cage.  This is not just normal chewing behavior; it is a frenzied, obsessive type of chewing brought on by stress.

 

Pacing – Repetitive, constant running back and forth, especially along the walls of the cage.  

 

Cage aggression – This is a strange but common issue in bored hamsters.  A cage aggressive hamster will be extremely hostile when handled inside of its cage, but may be much calmer outside of it.  Examples of aggressive behavior include charging at the human keeper’s hands, biting, and hissing.

 

Wall-scaling - Also called monkey-barring, this is when the hamster repeatedly climbs up the bars of the cage.   If the cage is not barred, this behavior may present as jumping up on the sides of the cage.  As with chewing on the cage, this is noticeably different from normal climbing and exploring behavior.  It’s often done in a frantic and obsessive way.

 

Lethargy - Simply put, the hamster doesn't do much other than sit around.  This is misinterpreted as laziness.  The truth is that a small, unenriching cage will cause a hamster to seem “lazy” just because there’s nothing for the hamster to actually do in the cage.  A hamster can’t forage and play with wheat and oat sprays if it isn’t provided any.  A hamster can’t construct elaborate and interesting burrow systems if they don’t have the space and bedding depth to set them up.

 

Behavior Misconceptions and the Cage Gap

 

Hamster boredom behaviors prove to be a challenge for hamster keepers to identify.  Not because they’re difficult to observe, but because they simply aren’t recognized as being boredom behaviors.

 

To many people, the above list probably reads like a list of what hamsters typically do.  These behaviors are so common in pet hamsters that they've become accepted as being normal and healthy.  Many people assume that this is just what hamsters are like as pets – aggressive animals that chew on their cages, always try to escape, and generally don’t do much other than that.

 

This is not the case.  A healthy, happy, enriched hamster should not be showing these behaviors on a regular basis.

 

If these behaviors are not “normal” for a healthy hamster, why are they so common?  The answer to this is quite simple: the cages that most people use for hamsters are not large enough to provide proper enrichment.  There is an enormous gap between what a hamster cage should be and what a typical store-bought hamster cage actually is.  This is the cage gap, and it is a major problem in the hamster community.

 

Cage Sizes

 

So, what size cage does a hamster need?

 

Well, this isn't a simple answer, because it's difficult (if not impossible) to tell for sure if a hamster is completely happy or not.  However, what we do know is that there is no known cage size that is large enough to eliminate boredom behaviors.

 

There was at least one scientific study conducted on hamster cage sizes by Fischer et al. in 2007.  The scientists put hamsters in cages of varying sizes, as follows:

 

1,800 sq. cm. (279 sq. in.)

2,500 sq. cm. (387 sq. in.)

5,000 sq. cm. (775 sq. in.)

10,000 sq. cm. (1550 sq. in.)

 

The scientists then observed and recorded the hamsters' behaviors in each cage size.  Essentially, what they found was that the smaller the cage, the more time the hamster spent chewing on the wires of their cages.  Larger cages resulted in less wire gnawing, but even in the large 10,000 sq. cm. cage, the hamsters still showed some boredom.

 

In light of this, we can see that cages around 1,500 square inches (10,000 square centimeters) are a good size to aim for, and cages in excess of this size should be our ultimate goal.  

 

Cage Sizes from Various Sources

 

That said, different organizations have different recommendations for cage sizes.  Not every group is going to agree, but here are some quick references:

 

Hamster Hideout Minimum = For various reasons, Hamster Hideout no longer has a single size that is considered a minimum.  However, you can still take a look at this topic to see what kinds of cages we consider appropriate.

 

RSPCA Minimum = 450 square inches / 3.1 square feet / 2903 square centimeters

 

German Hamster Forum Minimum = 620 square inches / 3.9 square feet / 4000 square centimeters

German Hamster Forum Recommended = 1550 square inches / 10.7 square feet / 10,000 square centimeters

 

ASPCA Minimum = 200 square inches / 1.4 square feet / 1290 square centimeters

 

HSUS Minimum = 288 square inches / 2 square feet / 1858 square centimeters

 

 

The Meaning of the Numbers

 

These numbers are guidelines for each organization.  Unfortunately, we often run into misunderstandings about what these numbers really represent.

 

"Magical Happiness Numbers" - Most recommendation numbers are meant to be general guidelines and starting points.  They are not ultimate goals and will not work for every hamster.  It is difficult to guarantee that a hamster will be happy in any given cage size, unless you're going with a cage that's upwards of 4,000 square inches.

 

A hamster can be unhappy in a minimum-sized cage.  

A hamster can be unhappy in a recommended cage.  

A hamster can be unhappy in a cage that is significantly larger than the recommended size.  

 

This is why it is strongly advised to go as large as possible.  Some hamsters (particularly Syrian hamsters) can be difficult to keep entertained in smaller cages.  

 

What is a Minimum? - Too often, owners fall into a false sense of security thinking that they have a great or perfect cage because it's the minimum size.  That is, they think that if their cage is the minimum, their hamster is 100% guaranteed to be happy and content in it.  We see this on the forum in the form of topics about boredom behaviors.  The owner is confused, because their hamster is showing signs of boredom.  But they insist that it can't be the cage, because it's the minimum size and therefore definitely big enough for the hamster.

 

Consider what the word “minimum” means.  It is the bare essential, the smallest amount possible.  To make an analogy, the minimum cage size is meant to be the starting line of the race, not the finish line.  Runners don’t take one step over the starting line and say that they’ve completed the race.  No, rather, they keep going towards the finish line.

 

Minimum cage sizes are the same way.  They are not the goal to strive for. They are meant to be a bare-bones starting point, and owners should always strive to get as far beyond the minimum as possible.

 

Why Does the Cage Gap Exist?

 

If hamsters need such large cages, then why are the cages available for purchase so small?

 

There is no single answer for this.  Part of the reason is that all this information is still relatively new.  We are continuing to learn about and observe hamster behavior in different-sized cages and seeing differences.

 

Another reason is the difference between surviving and thriving.  Hamsters can survive in smaller store-bought cages.  It does not mean they will be happy and healthy, but they will live.  

 

And for some people, that's enough.  Hamsters are often purchased as pets for the entertainment of small children.  And in some of these cases, the hamster's well-being is not a terribly high priority – the child doesn’t understand and the parent doesn’t care.  It doesn't mean that it's the right thing to do, and it’s not the kind of care we promote on Hamster Hideout, but it would be silly to ignore the fact that this does happen.

 

Summary

 

I hope this article has been an interesting read if nothing else. More than that, though, I hope this article has helped to clear up any confusion regarding hamster cage sizes.  Even if you still disagree, I hope that perhaps you at least understand the reasoning behind large cages a little better.

 

 

 

Citations

 

Animal Enrichment

St. Louis Zoo

 

Behaviour of golden hamsters (Mesocricetus auratus) kept in four different cage sizes

 

Adapted from The Case For Large Cages.

Okay, I'll admit it. I am one of this parents that figured I could run into a pet store, buy a cage, food and a hamster and it was all good. Boy was I wrong.... And I am so glad I learned how wrong I was before I bought a hamster. I would hate to think how much damage I could have caused....

So to future parents of children with hamsters, a few lessons I learned over the course of this journey.

1. Yes, that hamster needs a bigger cage. Your child isn't just whining cause they think it is cool. It is actually needed. Those small cages are like crating a dog 24/7 or solitary confinement for a prisoner. It isn't good.

2. Diy is your friend and it will save you a lot. The Enclosure I am making has cost half of what buying one would.

3. Listen to your children. Seriously, these kids here are walking encyclopedias of hamster knowledge. Learn from their passion.

4. Do this with your kids. It has been amazing watching my own children learn and grow because of this. Not only that, we have a better relationship because I am listening and working with them.

5. Yes, it needs all those toys. It's enriching like a mobile is to a baby. This is your child's baby, the more they want for it, the more they pay attention and learn about it, the better your child will be prepared for the future.

6. Yes, those food mixes are important! The bad stuff is like eating McDonald's every day. A good food mix is very important. Do you want a healthy, long lived hamster? I thought so. Not to mention you child learning about the food mixes is forcing them to use math, science, biology. It's a freaking beginning to a future vet and we all want our kids to pull in that type of cash one day, lol

7. The amount of work you can get from your child is amazing, lol I'm sorry but it is true. Grades go up in trade for bigger cages, chores get done for new toys. Sorry kids but for us parents that is one of the biggest motivators for us.



So yeah, listen and learn with them. It will better prepare them for the future, it can bring you closer together and strengthen your relationship through the roughest years for parents and kids. The dreaded teens. And just think, this is what I have learned from this amazing group on two weeks. Imagine what I will learn tomorrow.


This topic was basically to show what cage we started out with thinking we needed to what we found out we really needed. A coworker of my hubbies gave us a cage, we are using it as a demonstration of what not to use now. Any questions?



Sorry it is blurry, was in a hurry.

This topic has been reviewed and previewed by the moderators and has there permission to be posted. 

 

If you don’t already give your hamster weekly checkups, now’s the time to start. By doing weekly check ups, you may be able to catch illness and diseases in early stages and prevent them from getting worse. So, here is how to do your at-home weekly checkup!

 

Eyes

The eyes should be bright, clear, alert and shiny with no soreness, discharge, bulging, dullness, white haze or crustiness. Then check the eyelids and make sure they work properly. Blow gently onto a hamster to get him/her to close their eyelids. If your hamster has an infected eyes it may discharge a red fluid, often mistaken for blood. It is produced from the back of the eyes by special glands called Harderian Glands and it acts as an ocular lubricant. There also should be no visible blood inside or around the eye. If your hamster has just woken up and there eyelids are hard open/hard closed, it is probably just a sticky eye and a small amount of warm water should fix that.

 

Ears

The ears should be clean with no bad smells, discharge or crustiness. If your hamster develops a bald spot right above the nose or a sore and they are housed in a barred cage, this is probably just from constant bar chewing. In most cases bar chewing is a symptom of stress.

 

Mouth & Teeth

 

There should be nothing hanging or dribbling from your hamster’s mouth. It should not smell foul or contain pus. If you find something fleshy hanging from your hamster’s mouth, contact a vet and most importantly don’t touch it. To check the teeth, you can pull gently back on their cheeks so that the lips are pulled back and the teeth are visible. The teeth should be yellow, Not white.  The teeth should touch and the bottom teeth should be longer than the top. If the hamster’s teeth curl or are very uneven, they will need clipping.

 

Cheek Pouches

The cheeks should have no lumps, not including stored food in the pouches. Can’t tell if it is just food or something different? The best way to check is time. Place the hamster back into their cage, then check later probably waiting half a day or longer. If the lump seems to still appear there after that time, there may be something wrong.

 

Nails

 

Next check the nails to make sure they're not getting too long. If they are long, they will curve over like a half crescent moon. A rock placed under any high-traffic area should keep long nails at short. Smooth rocks are the best in keeping your hamster safe and trimming down the nails, just make sure you sanitize your rocks first.  If the nails are too long, they can be clipped  very carefully with nail clippers. Be slow and patient as some hamsters may not enjoy this, watch for the red vain in the hamsters nail. This is the quick, do not cut past this part of the nail it will cause your hamster’s nail to bleed. If you're afraid of this happening have a plate of flour near to dab onto the nail if you cut the quick and the nail ends up bleeding.

 

Genitals & Scent Glands & Under Belly

The stomach should not have any discolouration, swelling or bruising. Scent glands are located on Syrians hips while Dwarf’s and Chinese carry them on their bellies.

The scent gland should not look sore, smell strongly or weep pus. There bottom should be dry. Now take a closer look at the hamster’s private parts. There shouldn’t be pus, feces or wetness around the anus. There should be no soreness, pus, bad or strong smell from your hamster’s gentitals. The penis should be retracted and not visible. There should also be no lumps or wounds on the testes.

Fur & Skin

 

The fur should be thick and slightly shiny with no bald patches, unkemptness or knotting. fur loss in young hamsters may be due to an underlying problem while fur loss in older hamsters happens often due to losing fur as they age. The skin should not be dry or flakey and overall be healthy looking.

 

Weighing

It is a good idea to regularly weigh your hamster, this way you will soon spot if there is rapid weight loss which may tell something is wrong. that something is wrong. Like humans hamsters weight fluctuates so it’s best to weigh them the same time every week. Another note is that older hamsters tend to lose weight once over 18 months. If your hamster loses a lot of weight quickly you should seek veterinary aid.

 

Check for Wounds & Lumps

Feel over your whole hamster’s body for any lumps, these may be tumors which need to be removed or abscesses. Then check for any bruising, bleeding, scabs etc.

 

 

Cage

Now it’s time to check the cage. Make sure any urine spots don’t attract ants and don’t smell extremely strong. There also should be no blood scattered anywhere in the cage, female hamster do not have monthly bleeding so blood anywhere in the cage is not a good sign. Stool should be firm and fairly dry. Over a period of time it's also good to check how much water they are consuming, drinking excessively is a symptom of diabetes. If you think your hamster has diabetes you can pick up some test strips.

 

Behavior

Unnatural behavior could be to over-grooming to a tame hamster biting on every touch, not wanting to wake up, breathing quickly, not eating or lack of appetite and more that could tell something is wrong with your hamster. Most  elderly hamsters slow down a sigh seen with age but in a younger hamster this could be a sign of illness.

 

Movement

Place your hamster on a hard but straight surface, then watch your hamster move. Watch to see they move freely, using all the limbs they normally with no limping. Sick hamsters may be hunched over. While the hamster is on this surface, listen to them breathe. Breathing should be normal with no wheezing, sneezing or laboured breathing which could be signs of a cold or respiratory infection.

 

Did your hamster not pass the health check? See here and look through symptoms before posting on the HH forums. 

 

If you have something to add, just post it and it can be looked over before being put into the first post.